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no oil pressure
23rd Jun 2010, 08:27
After seeing a couple guys struggling to start their fuel injected lycoming while working on an aircraft this afternoon; I walked out and started it on the first go. The pilot (who seemed to be on a group navex with his mates) looked a bit embarrassed and I reassured him that I had made the same errors when I first started out.

Considering that I had the same problems when I first flew an injected engine I thought I'd give some pointers on how to start them.

Lycoming normally aspirated engine

Cold Start

Mixture Rich, Throttle Fully open.

Prime the engine - turn on the boost pump, watch for the fuel flow to rise from Zero. Once the fuel flow rises wait one second and then switch the pump back off.

Mixture - idle cut off
Throttle - slightly cracked open.

Mags on, Crank the starter - As soon as the engine fires advance the mixture to rich.

Hot Start

Throttle - Leave it where it was when you shut down at 1000rpm.

Mixture - Idle cut off

Mags on, Crank the starter - As soon as the engine fires advance the mixture to rich.

***Note: on the odd occasion you may have to prime the engine with a splash of fuel if the engine doesn't fire after the second crank*** - as soon as the fuel flow rises, turn off the boost pump.

Sometimes you may get vapour lock in the injector lines after sitting on the ground for more than 15mins. To clear it, flood the engine with fuel. This will cool the injector lines back down and stop vaporising the fuel in the lines (then refer to the flooded start). You may notice fuel vaporisation just after start on the taxi as the engine will run rough. Turn on the boost pump and it will clear it.



Flooded Start

Ok, so you've flooded your engine from over priming it. This will be evident from the small puddle of fuel under manifold drain. We all do it from time to time. Those will attest that when we first jumped into fuel injected aircraft we all did it at least once - no big drama.

There are two ways about going about it. Obviously you have to clear the extra fuel from the intake manifold and the cylinders.

First way

Throttle - wide open

Mixture - Idle cut off

Mags on.

Crank the engine. The fuel/air mixture will start to lean out in the cylinders to a point where the engine will fire. As the engine lights pull the throttle back to near idle and advance the mixture all the way forward. Be careful not to over rev the engine on start - this takes some perfection. You will master it in the first couple starts when you have to use it. - This is the most successful way to start a flooded engine.

You could also open the throttle wide open, have the mixture at idle cut off with the mags off and crank the engine for say five seconds to draw the excess fuel out. Mags on, a splash of fuel and away you go.


It will take you a few flights to master the starts but at least you weren't totally thrown in the deep end.

Cheers,


Use all of the above advice at your OWN risk - just to cover my backside.:sad:

Jabawocky
23rd Jun 2010, 08:41
You have been reading the Jaba Air SOP's for starting large Lycosaurus's haven't you??

I can confirm the above 100% :ok:

Water Wings
23rd Jun 2010, 08:51
Never suffered from vapour lock with a Lycoming but bloody hell could the Continental be a b*&ch sometimes!

VH-XXX
23rd Jun 2010, 10:07
That is exactly what I do for the fuel injected Continental in the SR20 and 22, only exception is that for the cold start I just crank with the mixture rich versus waiting like you do for the crank to raise the mixture.

conflict alert
23rd Jun 2010, 10:18
no oil pressure

you have recited precisely my start procedures under all circumstances when I had a arrow 4 with the turbo charged 200. :ok: never had a problem

Aerozepplin
23rd Jun 2010, 11:00
Any tips for the infamous TCMs? Haven't flown one yet but looking to soon!

Jabawocky
23rd Jun 2010, 11:13
Ahhhhh AeroZep!

You need the FTDK to come along and explain in fine detail the "Bonanza Fuel Pump Shuffle" :}

And before you get your dancing shoes out....let me say this that once mastered the art of starting a hot Conty is a mystery no more!

And if you are not careful you rev the crap out of it by mistake :suspect:

Forkie will explain no doubt....and with some usual "expansion of the truth" when it comes to young Jaba's learning the dancing routine!

J:ok:

conflict alert
23rd Jun 2010, 11:18
ooops - read the first post too fast..didn't see the lycoming bit until you queried the continental. Mine was a conty but what 'no oil pressure' says actually worked exactly the same for me in the arrow.

What are you looking at flying ?

iogrsw
23rd Jun 2010, 11:20
most fuel injected lycos run rich at idle so on a hot/flooded start, when it fires I increase the mixture just enough to keep it running nicely. Full rich a second too early often causes it to die again in my experience.

UnderneathTheRadar
23rd Jun 2010, 11:28
Have found sometimes that if an engine is really hot then the following can work:

1. Master on
2. Throttle wide open
3. Mixture rich - look for a quick spurt of fuel flow
4. Mixture cutoff
5. Throttle closed then open 1/2 inch
6. start.

Seems to put just enough fuel into the cylinders to make it work nicely.

Otherwise, failsafe is:

1. Master on
2. Fuel pump on (keep pressure in the lines - prevents vapour lock where possible)
3. Crack throttle, mixture ICO
3. start
4. ease the mixture open (as mentioned above so it doesn't get reflooded).
5. fuel pump off

Works perfectly every time.

UTR.

ForkTailedDrKiller
23rd Jun 2010, 11:44
OK, OK - take your partners for the Bonanza shuffle!

The following will work 100% of the time with fuel injected TCM IO520 and IO550 engines. Starting, particularly hot starting, is really only an issue with the older Bos and Barons that have single speed (high) boost pumps. Cessnas and Beech with two speed pumps are far less of an issue.

Cold Start (no big deal!)

1) shove everything forward
2) hit the fuel boost pump until fuel flow stabilizes
3) close the throttle and then crack it where it would normally be for idle (or 1/4 inch if you don't know the former)
4) crank the starter till the engine fires
5) set throttle to desired rpm

Hot Start (the Bonanza shuffle!)
1) Mix full rich, Pitch full fine
2) Crack the throttle just a bee's dick (one turn on an older Bo's vernier throttle
3) Hit the boost pump until fuel flow stabilizes
4) Open the throttle 1/4 to 1/2 (I use 1/4)
5) Crank the starter till the engine fires
6) If the engine starts to die (it generally will) - hit the boost pump until it picks up again - then "off"
7) Repeat (6) if necessary!
8) Reduce throttle to give desired rpm (1000 rpm)

In maybe 2-300 hot starts in the FTDK I have only had to have two goes maybe twice. Except when trying to teach Jaba the Bonanza shuffle!

If all else fails (with TCMs or Lycs)
1) Shove everything forward
2) prime it until you are sure it is flooded
3) Throttle full open
4) Mixture full lean
5) crank the engine till it fires
6) smoothly move mixture to full rich
7) quickly close throttle to desired rpm
8) immediately allow the aeroplane to taxi forward 1.5 aeroplane lenghts in case excess fuel has been pumped out onto the ground and lit up during the start

Another method that is recommended for hot starting the big bore fuel injected Contis is to run the boost pump for 1 - 2 minutes with the throttle closed and the mixture full lean. This will cool the fuel system and remove any fuel vapour that is the cause of problem starts. Then start as per a normal cold start. If you are going to try this you need to first check that when you do it - fuel does not overflow out of the fuel system into the engine compartment onto the ground - with the inherent danger of a fuel fire.

I have never done it this way cause the Bonanza Shuffle works 100% of the time - so why change.

Dr :8

iogrsw
23rd Jun 2010, 12:13
"immediately allow the aeroplane to taxi forward 1.5 aeroplane lenghts in case excess fuel has been pumped out onto the ground and lit up during the start"

Great advice Dr. I once burnt the fabric off the lower left wing after a botched hot start, (LYCO not TCM). unfortunately it did not start despite continued cranking. I had to unstrap, get out quickly and move the aircraft away from the fire source - very lucky the the entire aircraft was not lost.

MyNameIsIs
23rd Jun 2010, 12:16
Had varying results with the Lyco IO540's non-turbo...

It sometimes depended on the particular engine, at least with the machines in the fleet that I flew.

I recall one M/E aircraft that I flew preferred starting when hot with one engine having the pump on whilst cranking, whilst the other engine preferred a quick splash prime via the fuel pump before cranking.
It started easier that way. The technique worked for other blokes aswell on that particular machine.

Carby 540's were much easier (And they powered my favourite plane in that fleet, but now I got them fancy Pratt gizmos :})


But in general, the thread starter's method was pretty much the way to go I found! Unless you had to work out a particular quirk to a particular machine.

Logged time in only 1 Conti-powered machine. Thoroughly hated it; but that might be because it was a bucket, rather than the engine. Was a while ago now, cant remember how to start that one, but I do recall flattening the battery once or twice as it had a little bit of an evil side!

no oil pressure
23rd Jun 2010, 12:16
If one of the mods would be kind enough to to rename the thread "how to start a fuel injected engine" that'd be great; seeing that we have both conts and lyc starting procedures here.

I'll including Turbocharged Lycs tomorrow.

ta.

conflict alert
23rd Jun 2010, 12:38
surely you must know how threads digress.

sms777
23rd Jun 2010, 12:43
That's not all!
Can we add supercharged, geared, injected lyco's as well?
You all know what i am talking about...Queenairs. I have logged over 2000 hours of frustrating start ups and i tell you that once you have mastered it you would start a D4 doser buried in sand in Yemen for the last 40 years with ease. Trust me!

I used to love'm but :{

eocvictim
23rd Jun 2010, 12:59
Every 520, 540 and 720 I've started, starts first time every time, be it -5 or +40 with Pumps on everything forward for a second everything closes crack the throttles (position changes for different engine temp and OAT) and hit the starter.

I was told 3 different starting techniques for 3 bonanza's at the same company :ugh: (points to anyone who guess which company). 50% of the time it works every time :ok: :}

AerobaticArcher
23rd Jun 2010, 14:15
Started many 520 contis, once you get a method sorted, it will work with any 520 that is working as it should.

If you can't start a 520 cold, then I reckon there is something wrong with it.

For a hot start, I have found the mixture at idle cutoff, pumps on high for a minute or 2 works the best (just watch you aren't getting any fuel flow). Then set about 1/2 throttle and hit start. It should start within a few revolutions. Once it fires, flick the fuel pump to low.

Chimbu chuckles
23rd Jun 2010, 16:44
I got a TRULY spectacular stack fire once using the 'flood it' technique at Mt Hagen (5500' amsl) in a C185 - keep cranking and suck the flames back in when it starts:uhoh:

Why would you need to adjust the RPM back to 1000'?

My IO550 just burbles into life and settles at 7-800 rpm.:ok:

Aerozepplin
23rd Jun 2010, 20:24
Thank you to Jabba, the good Dr., and all. The Bonanza shuffle sounds a bit like starting a radial where three perhapes four hands would be ideal.

What are you looking at flying ?

Something A65 powered :}

But also IO-360... so nothing as manly as a Bo :(

VH-XXX
23rd Jun 2010, 21:58
Am waiting for someone to tell us how to start the most difficult engine of all...... The infamous Jabiru cold start :\

an3_bolt
23rd Jun 2010, 22:00
Why would you need to adjust the RPM back to 1000'?

My IO550 just burbles into life and settles at 7-800 rpm.

Refer to: http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/tips-advice/key-reprints/pdfs/Key%20Operations.pdf

Page 32

4. The engine should be operated at engine speeds between 1000 and 1200 RPM after starting and during the initial warm-up period. Avoid prolonged closed-throttle, idle-engine speed operation (when possible). At engine speeds from 1000 to 1200 RPM, the spark plug core temperatures are hot enough to activate the lead scavenging agents contained in the fuel which retards the formation of the lead salt deposits on the spark plugs and exhaust valve stems. Avoid rapid engine-speed changes after start-up, and use only the power settings required to taxi.

Jabawocky
24th Jun 2010, 00:15
Easy XXX

correct oil, correct gap on plugs and coils, decent grounds to the starter :ok:

Never had a problem even in the sub tropicals at 0 degrees.

J:ok:

ForkTailedDrKiller
24th Jun 2010, 00:20
Never had a problem even in the sub tropicals at 0 degrees.

Unlike the IO540 in the Retard Vehicle, which has been known to NOT start! :E

Dr :8

Peter Fanelli
24th Jun 2010, 00:54
Does that Lycoming technique work with this Lycoming?

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s295/bigt57/r7755.jpg

an3_bolt
24th Jun 2010, 01:07
...only is you wear the pristine white overalls and flying goggles:ok:

....definitely would not work for the bloke on the right.

Aerozepplin
24th Jun 2010, 02:24
At least his eyes and dapper appearance will be safe when the inevitable "minor failure" takes place.

Stikybeke
24th Jun 2010, 02:34
Does anyone know what the tyre pressure would be for the wheel that goes on that axle?

Stiky
:}

Chimbu chuckles
24th Jun 2010, 04:16
an 3_bolt I didn't say I don't adjust the rpm UP to 1000 rpm, when the oil pressure and temps justify it. I just like my engine to burble into life, particularly when cold, rather than roar into life.

I see Lycoming hasn't changed its position on LOP EGT ops.

goldypilot
24th Jun 2010, 04:28
On the topic fuel... A 310 pilot parked his plane at a bowser and walk off to get his pax after he fueled up. I was only a little bit pissed at the fact he left his plane in the way for a good 10 minutes. (I was angree coz we are talkin 35 degree day) This is the good part... Once he gets back to the plane he tells me along with his pax he didnt want to start up and taxi to the terminal as the engines are a bitch to start when hot, and he wanted to save the starter. I thought F$%K i am flying a Baron I can manage just fine but i didn't say anything. Then I thought for a minute while i watched him star up. ahhhh i know he makes his pax walk everywhere... He is flooding the girl. Myself having flown both the c310 and baron which both have the continental IO520's figured out what this guy's problem was. He was priming the engines way to long and flooding them. This is why he couldn't start them. (my thought anyway) I thought it was great having to sit for another 10minutes while he started his engines. I bet his LAME would love the fact he is tryin to save the starter but would his OPs manager like the fact he is makeing pax walk everywhere, after all they paid to fly.....

Atlas Shrugged
24th Jun 2010, 04:28
8) immediately allow the aeroplane to taxi forward 1.5 aeroplane lenghts in case excess fuel has been pumped out onto the ground and lit up during the start

:ok::ok::ok:

An excellent piece of advice, which sadly, isn't taught to the kiddies anymore these days. It's commonsense and good airmanship really........and that's not taught either :ugh:

goldypilot
24th Jun 2010, 04:32
just the thing about common sence. its not very common

ForkTailedDrKiller
24th Jun 2010, 05:18
8) Reduce throttle to give desired rpm (1000 rpm)

Psssst! Chuckles, that was on the "Hot start" list!

Dr :8

propblast
24th Jun 2010, 05:30
I thought it was great having to sit for another 10minutes while he started his engines.If spending 10minutes trying to start 2 engines is considered saving the startor motor, what is flogging them.

The 310, easy to start hot. Everything closed, pumps on low, purge the lines. Everything forward and a small squirt from the primer (about a second), close throttles, crack to 1/4 inch, crank and it'll fire. Then sit nicely on 1000.

Jabawocky
24th Jun 2010, 08:00
Unlike the IO540 in the Retard Vehicle, which has been known to NOT start! http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/src:www.pprune.org/get/images/smilies/evil.gif

Well it would if Forkie had not left the master on and flattened the battery :8

povopilot
24th Jun 2010, 09:12
The Seneca is a prick of a thing, and its not over once they are started especially on a warm day, that primer button gets a working over - nothing like getting a clearance to line up then having one of the donks stop and refuse to start too... Also a pain after landing when trying to cool the turbo's on the taxi in and you have to keep the engine at 1200 RPM just to keep it running. Why couldn't Piper just put O470's in it??

fencehopper
24th Jun 2010, 09:23
Monster engine what is it and what was it built for?

PA39
24th Jun 2010, 09:54
Am waiting for someone to tell us how to start the most difficult engine of all...... The infamous Jabiru cold start

With a match !!

Peter Fanelli
24th Jun 2010, 10:45
Monster engine what is it and what was it built for?


Lycoming R7755
5000 HP

Built for things that never came.

rutan around
24th Jun 2010, 12:58
I was taught to use the flooded start method when the io520 was hot. DONT It's a very bad way to do it. If the engine backfires fuel will ignite and burn right back to the air filter. Dont ask me how I know. Continuing to operate the starter is good if you know theres a problem and the battery is not nearly flat but you might not have that luxury. Cessna Pilots Assn. recommends for a hot engine (1) full throttle, mixture idle cut off , boost pump on high up to 2 minutes. (2) mixture full rich, throttle idle, change fuel tanks,short burst with the boost pump. (3) engage starter and slowly advance throttle. Works every time and no fire danger. This method purges the hot vaporized fuel from the fuel lines and replaces it with cool fuel without pumping any into the manifold.Changing tanks ensures you don't immediately reuse the purged fuel. The short burst clears the injector lines and puts a small amount in the manifold for starting. Normally I dont need to use this method until OAT is 35+ and the plane has been shut down 10-20 minutes.
Safe Starting RA

MyNameIsIs
24th Jun 2010, 22:32
Almost forgot...

If all else fails, you could try some of this:

http://lloydi.com/travel-writing/round-the-world-trip/country/05-australia/08-across-nullarbor/images/start-ya-bastard.jpg


Note - not for aircraft use...
Just covering my arse, some idiot out there will probably use it otherwise.

Mainframe
26th Jun 2010, 00:55
Some of you may have seen this document before, it owes its origins to bank runs and mail runs, where frequent hot starting is par for the course.

Continental (IO-520 series) Fuel Injected Engines


Basic premise for starting problems:
If engine is Cold; insufficient fuel.
If engine is Hot; usually excessive fuel.
Respond accordingly.

Normal Start / Cold Start:
Use technique in Cessna 402 POH, it works.
Summarised;
Set Throttles just above idle stops. Set Mixtures to Max Rich (forward).
Operate Fuel pumps momentarily on “LOW” position to ensure head of fuel.
Set all Magneto switches “ON”, and then operate the starter for the engine being started.
While cranking, operate the starting “Prime” toggle switch (between the starter buttons) to side being started, for one or two seconds.
Note: this switch (“Primer”) will deliver raw fuel to the inlet manifold, it is not metered and excess fuel will drain to the ground below the engine.
When the engine starts firing, release the starter button to bring both Magnetos on line.
Check Oil Pressure rising then repeat start for other engine.

Hot Starting C402:

Continental Fuel Injected engines may be difficult to start when hot.

The following procedure has been demonstrated to normally reduce that difficulty.

(1): Master ON, Mixtures ICO and held back against stops, Throttles full open, Fuel pumps on “High” for 30 seconds, observe Fuel Flow, (there should be zero or minimum flow),

discontinue on either engine that indicates a positive fuel flow in this procedure.
(This step helps to purge vapour and cools the fuel lines, 30 seconds seems a longtime, be patient.)

(2): Throttle set just above idle, Mixtures rich, engage Starter and Prime with toggle momentarily, then slowly advance Throttle while cranking. Observe cranking limits.
When engine starts firing, release Starter to bring both Magnetos online, adjust RPM.


If this procedure fails, then attempt starting the other engine before returning here. You may set up for a flooded start as follows (review “Caution”)

(1): Mixture full rich, Throttle full open, Fuel Pump on High till fuel flow stabilises on gauge, (about 5 seconds) then off.
(2): Mixture Idle Cut-off, Throttle full open, Magnetos ON, engage Starter.
When engine starts firing, release Starter and enrich Mixture slowly, while simultaneously retarding the Throttle to set idle at 1,000 rpm.


Caution:
This alternative flooding procedure has a risk of engine fire if a backfire occurs. If this happens, continue cranking, if possible, to extinguish or draw in flames.


Hot Starting Lycoming (IO-540 series) Fuel Injected Engines

Basic premise for starting problems:

If engine is Cold; insufficient fuel.
If engine is Hot; usually excessive fuel.
Respond accordingly.

This method was developed and validated on night reight operations. It works.
A prerequisite to this procedure is a shutdown procedure that must be followed.


Engine Shutdown:
(1) Prior to shutdown, Fuel Pumps ON, set rpm to 1,100. Tighten Friction knob.
(2) Close Mixtures slowly to Idle Cut Off stops, then switch off Fuel Pumps.
(Theory; fuel lines are left slightly pressurized, this delays or prevents vaporisation)
(3) After shutdown, ensure all Magneto switches are set to OFF!
You have just set up the engines for the following easy “Hot Start” procedure.


Hot Start:
Provided the above procedure was complied with at shutdown, the following will give an almost instant Hot Start, up to about 20 mins after shutdown.

(1) DON’T touch any of the levers you locked earlier.
(If the mixture controls have been inadvertently moved, the method is no longer valid.)

(2) Master ON, Mags ON, Fuel Pump ON for 5 secs, then OFF. (ensures a head of fuel)
(3) Engage Starter, engine will start. (usually after about 3 blades pass you).
(4) At this time, release the Starter and advance the Mixture, consider using the Fuel Pump as necessary, if surging occurs.

(5) Repeat for other engine.

MakeItHappenCaptain
27th Jun 2010, 07:41
The fuel system common to most Continental engines will actually cycle fuel through the lines, hence (as Mainframe posted) the Mixture off, Throttles closed and run the high pumps for at least 30 secs. You will notice there is no fuel flow showing while this is occurring.

Ultralights
27th Jun 2010, 08:49
part of me is thinking, in this day and age, 2010, why is such rigmarole required when starting an aircraft engine? we have the technology, the metallurgy, and the experience in engineering to be able to produce an aircraft engine that will start just as easily Hot as it will cold!
and yes, i know i own and operate Rotax engines, but -10 deg c, pull choke, hit ignition, then start, too easy, even on 35 deg days, after a long 4 hr flight, engine still hot, again, ignition on, hit the starter. no problems..

i am amazed that Textron/Lycombing/Continental are still such troublesome beasts in this era.

even on foxtel recently, a documentary "building an aircraft engine" it was a IO540 engine, still made with silk string gaskets for crying out loud!
i blame the legal profession for such rapid advances in General aviation technology...:ugh:

ForkTailedDrKiller
27th Jun 2010, 09:38
i am amazed that Textron/Lycombing/Continental are still such troublesome beasts in this era

They are not!

FI Contis - C206, C210, C310, C402, Bonanza, Baron
FI Lycs - New generation C172, C182, C206; PA31, PA32; Mooney

Can't say I have ever had a problem starting any of them. A matter of learning to do it properly - if in doubt, by-the-book usually works.

IMO, the only ones that can be a bit tricky when hot are FI Continentals with single (high) speed fuel boost pumps because they generally will not run, or are very unhappy, with the boost pump on.

Dr :8

PS: Oh yeah, and the IO540 in the Retard Vehicle - but don't tell anyone!

VH-XXX
27th Jun 2010, 11:06
I'll give credit where it's due Forky. The IO-540 did start first pop in the Retard Vehicle when I was in it.

ForkTailedDrKiller
27th Jun 2010, 11:28
I think the big bore Lycs and Conties are much maligned!

A turbonormalised gamijector'd properly baffled IO550 connected to an all-cylinder engine monitor, and the latest technology propellor, is a great bit of kit!

Provided that QA on the bits is up-to-scratch, and they are operated with intelligence, there is no reason why they will not give good service at a reasonable price.

Dr :8

PS: ... and the only thing that sounds better is one of those funny big round engines!

Peter Fanelli
27th Jun 2010, 12:15
i am amazed that Textron/Lycombing/Continental are still such troublesome beasts in this era.


They are not

The biggest problem is that students these days are not taught proper engine handling because the instructors teaching them rarely have any experience operating the larger engines.

It's only going to get worse as more people train in aircraft with toy engines with devices like FADEC and single lever control.
If and when they do get into something producing decent horsepower they are lost.

This is why training aircraft need to be basic, not high tech.

To teach the basics.

VH-XXX
27th Jun 2010, 12:29
Dash 8's have FADECs and Decent horsepower :)

Ejector
28th Jun 2010, 02:54
Continental Hot Start in the tropics can be a real prick, just flood it.

rutan around
28th Jun 2010, 13:09
Ejector
Read Post40 I used the flooded start method for years until the day it gave a small backfire ignited the manifold fuel and burnt most of the air filter. Could have been really bad. Probably that's why the method is not in the Cessna Owners Manual for C210's
Cheers RA

Lodown
28th Jun 2010, 18:32
Wow. Too many things for me to remember. One technique common to all piston engines: hot, cold or in between...a little flooding. Doesn't take much and there's no need to dump litres of fuel down the manifolds. Works for dummies like me.