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View Full Version : Choosing a case? (Caution! Minefield)


Keygrip
18th Feb 2008, 03:58
I have project "Deep Thought" in progress. The building of my first home made machine - dual core chip, 8gB RAM, 2 x 512mB video cards, 2 x 500gB HDDs (RAID). 64 bit Vista Ultimate.

I'm nearly there with the shopping list which, fur various reasosn, is all from www.newegg.com (http://www.newegg.com) but still need case, power supply and DVD drive(s) - and maybe some extra cooling fans.

Cases, to my uneducated brain are just steel boxes - so why are some $20 and some $200?

I thought I'd found a reasonable combo with http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129024 as for US$110 it includes a 500W power supply (which would retail for $US55 on it's own) and free shipping (no tax payable).

But then I find another 500W supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817148027 for just $40 (dropping to $25 with rebates).

I also saw a PSU with "SLI" technology for only $40 after rebates at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817159054
and, whilst I don't understand what "SLI" is - it matches the promotion for the video cards and the motherboard.

Front sockets (USB/Firewire/Audio) I may have built in, I may purchase a "media centre" panel to fit in one of the large drive bays.

Where do you begin?

Saab Dastard
18th Feb 2008, 12:28
For SLI information, google is your friend:

http://www.pcmech.com/article/sli-technology/

Cases, cases!

Write down your requirements, particularly around quiet operation, cooling fan requirements, number of internal / external drive bays, toolfree operation and appearance / lighting (this latter leaves me totally cold). Probably more, but that's a start.

Select case, based on the above, assuming that EMR shielding is equal for all (it isn't, but how are you going to tell).

If buying from a website, there are often reader reviews that give clues.

Don't expect the cheapest case to be well finished (but then many expensive ones aren't either).

Read the small print - some cases come with a lot more screws, cables, adaptors than others.

SD

NeoDude
18th Feb 2008, 19:12
I currently use an Antec P182. It's a very nice case, can't fault it at all. Google for it and you should get plent of reviews. It is probably the most popular case around at the moment.

Spitoon
18th Feb 2008, 19:46
Not that you can necessarily tell from the price but some cases are built to be easy to open up (but can be more expensive) whilst others are quite the reverse. The former are great for those who like to fiddle with their innards whereas if you're the sort of person who is likely to put it together and not change anything for the next five years then the latter will suit.

Kanos
19th Feb 2008, 03:26
Vista is limited to 4GB of RAM. You can put more in if you want but it won't get used.

hellsbrink
19th Feb 2008, 07:04
Agree with NeoDude, Antec cases are good for the price and are nice and easy for access (you still want to get into it easily to build the PC, after all. You don't want to be pulling out the PSU just so you can fit the motherboard like some cases force you to do.)

Coolermaster is another brand I like, but these ar just my personal choices.


Oh, one other thing, I would go for a PSU larger than 500w if possible, won't do any harm and since the psu will be stressed less it should last a heck of a lot longer

Bushfiva
19th Feb 2008, 07:57
Kanos,

Vista is limited to 4GB of RAM.


Keygrip's 64 bit Vista Ultimate supports 128GB.

Mac the Knife
19th Feb 2008, 10:13
"64 bit Vista Ultimate......supports 128GB"

Required in order to run Super Mario at DOS 3.21 speeds

:}

Keef
19th Feb 2008, 13:49
I thought cases were just tin boxes till I bought my last PC.

It's got a 700 watt power supply, and there's one screw to undo to take off the top or the sides. That one screw is designed for fingers, not screwdrivers. The slight snag is that it makes opening up the case TOO easy.

It has 4 full-size drivebays, 4 HDD bays, 2xUSB and 1x Firewire on the front, plus an LCD panel, headphone socket, switch for the flashing lights (always switched off), floppy drive and PCMCIA slots.

In other words, totally over the top. But you may be sure my next PC will have a similar case. After years of simple boxes with 300 watt power supplies that feel like ovens after they've been on for a couple of hours, this cool device (with its two large fans) is the bees knees.

Strangely, there's no maker's name on it.

Diedtrying
19th Feb 2008, 16:49
I have project "Deep Thought" in progress. The building of my first home made machine - dual core chip, 8gB RAM, 2 x 512mB video cards, 2 x 500gB HDDs (RAID). 64 bit Vista Ultimate.



Vista will run fine with 8Gb of RAM.
2x512 Graphics cards will suck juice from the 12 volt rail like it is going out of fashion, so make sure that whatever power supply you buy will be Sli ready. If you want to future proof look fo a 1000W model.

You can pay a hell of a lot for a case as this will help with cooling, some of the more expensive cases are machined from a single bloc of alloy.

Diedtrying
19th Feb 2008, 16:51
"64 bit Vista Ultimate......supports 128GB"

Required in order to run Super Mario at DOS 3.21 speeds

:}



Sad but very true. :ugh:

Keygrip
23rd Feb 2008, 18:46
Order placed. Thanx folks.

Ended up with 1000w PSU to be installed inside a very lenghty named "COOLER MASTER Stacker 830 Evolution RC-830-KKR3-GP Black Aluminum ATX Full Tower Computer Case"

Fingers crossed.

cribble
24th Feb 2008, 10:44
:8 It's not too late to ditch the fascist gatesware and go to Linux.

Don't be sucked in by the "ease of backup" claims of Ultimate: they are b/s.

If you are looking to encrypt: lots of luck - more gateswareb/s. Go to the knowledge base forums and look around.

Are you used to being able to install/move/uninstall/delete files on your own computer? Lots of luck with Ultimate, mate.

Run Linux, run Apple,Run Away from Vista.

Declaration: the only reason I am running a single-boot XP system is because I can't afford to be shagged by gatesware on a dual boot linux machine.

edited for fat fingered spelling

Keygrip
24th Feb 2008, 13:07
The Linux training starts shortly after the installation of this machine (tagged "Deep Thought").

An old laptop, running what has turned out to be an illegal copy of WinowsXP (an upgrade from original legitimate 98SE) will be converted to Linux as a test bed.

It's first job is to become a telephone exchange for the house (and route calls into/out of the internet, rather than copper pair rented from the phone company).

I'd also like it to run "SAM4 Broadcaster" from Spacial Audio - but not found out if SAM will run under Linux yet.

It's a fairly low powered machine, but will try to run a Second Life character on it, too.

Any other suggestions as to what to do with a hi-speed connection and a Linux machine?

Saab Dastard
24th Feb 2008, 14:56
It's first job is to become a telephone exchange for the house (and route calls into/out of the internet, rather than copper pair rented from the phone company)

Do consider what you will do for telephone calls if any part of the internet connection / exchange fails.

SD

Keygrip
24th Feb 2008, 15:32
Cell!

I have actually considered that, as during the hurricanes of 2005, the only service to stay connected to our home was landline telephone.

Cable TV went, electricity went, cellphones went, phone stayed connected. Radio was OK, lol.

Keygrip
28th Feb 2008, 13:19
Two big boxes of bits arriving by UPS today.

*Never* built one from zero before.

Apart from "RTFM" - any hints or tips?

hellsbrink
28th Feb 2008, 13:53
Piece of pee to do it.

First, in your case, READ THE INSTRUCTION MANUALS!! Taking the power supply out can give you more room to work but that depends on the case.

Insert the CPU and fit it's cooler before you fit the motherboard into the case as it can save scraped knuckles and gives you a nice lump to hold onto. Fit RAM before fitting mobo into case too as space could be limited. Make sure "jumpers" are set properly (if necessary, some mobos don't have that any more) before you fit the motherboard in the case. Fit motherboard in case next. Connect up things like "speaker"/hdd light/power/reset/usb panel/etc wires next. Fit all components after you fit the motherboard into the case, they'll only fit one way so if you have to force things you are doing it wrong so don't force anything. Once all components are fitted, add all cables. That's it basically. Oh, if possible, make sure it's easy to add anything else in the future (put your dvd drive in the bottom drive bay so if you add another it's easier to fit that in above the existing one, as an example). Many cables, etc, are now colour coded so it's even easier than in the past.

Ultimately, take your time. Patience is a virtue and since you'll spend so long installing software an extra few minutes doing the build will not make a difference to things.

Oh, make sure at least one part of your body is touching the case when you add things as static can cause havoc.

E.Z. Flyer
28th Feb 2008, 17:05
As an after thought in preparing for assembly perhaps consider some procedures to follow. Anti-static methods such as gloves, mat, and wrist (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Description=anti-static)strap can help to keep the equipment free of contamination. Gloves especially might be the most beneficial. Components such as the CPU, video cards, memory sticks are packaged in clean rooms and even contact with skin will contaminate their surfaces making them more prone to dust and conduit to static particles.

Saab Dastard
28th Feb 2008, 17:52
If you are adding CPU, cooler and RAM to the motherboard before installing the mobo in the case, make sure that the mobo is well and uniformly supported to ensure you don't flex it.

Take particular care that the mobo mounting studs are the correct length for the correct location in the case. The mobo is flat, but the "bottom" of the case need not necessarily be!

Sometimes it is easier to install some of the audio / CD cables before all of the PCI cards, and similarly it may be easier to plug the mobo ends of IDE and SATA cables in before installing the drives.

Be prepared to remove drives, cables and cards to change the installation order (don't screw them down until it all fits together) to get everything to fit!

It's well worth getting some cable ties and / or or cable tubing to tidy up the cabling inside, as this can aid airflow, reduce irritating noises and make working on the system easier in the future.

SD

hellsbrink
28th Feb 2008, 18:20
To follow on to SD's post (I should have been clearer), I usually put the mobo on it's antistatic bag, then on the foam pad that will be in the box and all that in the actual box whilst adding things before installing it in the case. Of course, you will be doing all this on a table of some kind so that means you have a nice, flat, stable platform to work on.

TBH, E.Z., I have never used antistatic gloves/straps/etc and I've never had an issue. Just make sure you hold any components at the edges, with as little contact as possible (think of holding a CD, you hold it so your fingers are on the very edges so you don't touch stick a fingerprint on the bit the disc is read from. Treat components in the same way.), don't touch any parts on the component and keep fingers clear of the connections. In an ideal world the power supply will be in the case as you work so you can connect the power cable, plug it into the wall (DO NOT SWITCH POWER ON AT WALL!!) and then the whole case is earthed so as long as a part of your hand/arm (big toe if your a contortionist) is then touching the case there shouldn't be any chance of any sort of issue as you and the PC will be at the same "potential". And there's always plenty exposed metalwork in a PC case to do that with.

Parapunter
28th Feb 2008, 19:17
This is all great advice, especially from HB - all stuff I've learnt the hard way! The best nugget in there is TAKE YOUR TIME :) and never, ever, force anything!

Just rewinding to the cases debate, I've had a few & found Antec to be the est thought out in termsof logical cable routing, cooling strategy & ease of access of any. MSI are about the worst & all small form factors suck.

eticket
29th Feb 2008, 04:07
Whenever I am building/renovating a PC I find the most essential piece of equipment to be an elastoplast as I always manage to cut my finger(s) on the metal case.

Keygrip
9th Mar 2008, 04:24
Good try! Close, but no cigar - as they say.

Finally managed to get both HDD in the case, both video cards in and connected in SLI, chip and ram mounted, DVD drive clamped and USB/media card plugged.

Pressed "Go". Not a lot.

All the fans that are supposed to whirr, whirred. All the LED's that are supposed to light, lit.

Nuth'n came out of the video cable(s) to the digital monitor(s).

:{:{:{:{

Now, ladies and gentlemen, we move forwards into a new dawn, a new era. (Troubleshooting).

Cabling, by the way, was a dream. 1000w psu had oodles of cables cascading from it - but found only 4pin CPU and millipede pin ATXpower were needed to the mobo, and then one SATA power cable gave volts to the 2 x HDD and the DVD.

3 x USB cables, 1 x 1394 cable, one AC97 (?) audio and one conglomorate of led/pwr/reset wires all fell into place in a ginormous case full of cooling fans. 3 x SATA data leads simply clicked into place. Skts 1 & 2 being the HDD's, Skt 3 being the DVD.

Didn't need PCI Express power leads, didn't need 8 pin CPU power lead, didn't need the 4 pin 12v lead (all tie-wrapped and stowed away.

Didn't really matter what I needed, as it didn't work, lol. Any of you guys live near Orlando?

hellsbrink
9th Mar 2008, 04:57
Keygrip

You have a bundle of wires/connections that come from the front of the case. Are they connected in the right places and are you sure none have come off as you hook everything up? (Power button connected to reset line, for example)

Also, and this is something that can catch a heck of a lot of people out, there could be a "jumper" which has to be moved (cmos reset) as some boards have this set to "reset" to preserve the battery whilst the board is kept on the shelf. That one little jumper will stop the machine powering up if it's in the "wrong way"


What motherboard is it, btw.

NeoDude
9th Mar 2008, 11:10
I find it strange that you didn't need to use the PCI-E power cables for your graphics cards. Are you sure they don't require seperate power supplies?

Keygrip
9th Mar 2008, 13:24
HB - it's an ASUS M2N-Sli Deluxe http://usa.asus.com/products.aspx?l1=3&l2=101&l3=301&l4=0&model=1160&modelmenu=1

I did read a paragraph (2.6 p2-20) about "a" jumper - singular - that suggests you "can" (not "must") move the jumper from pins 1 and 2, place it on pins 2 and 3 for 5 to 10 seconds, then replace on pins 1 and 2.

This, apparently, clears the "Real Time Clock RAM in CMOS". It comes with two warnings, don't do this unless clearing the clock as removal will cause system boot failure (ah, interesting!!) and if you do do it, you must reset the bios afterwards.

This al suggests that it's an option for later use, after having run the machine initially -especially as the first line is "Turn off the computer with the power switch".

The jumper is in it's default pin 1 and 2 position.

All the scrawny little wires from the front, HDD LED, PWRLED, RESET and PWR are connected through a "Quick Connect" adaptor that makes them into a single plug for direct connection to their new home in the corner of the motherboard. It's one ribbon cable that splits into four individual connections. The ribbon is run alongside the two front panel USB cables, the front panel 1394 cable and the front panel audio cable - all connected to their individual places.

The audio has three connection options, HD Audio, AC97 and "Azalia" - mother board is default enabled to AC97 (whatever that is), so that was the choice.

Neo, I'm convinced that the cards don't use the external power - though equally surprised. Each card has a fan on it, so I'm assuming a reasonable current draw. Having seen the plethora of eight ad six pin connectors on the PCI EXpress power cords from the PSU (there are 4 cords, each with a minimum of two connectors (an 8 pin and a 6 pin)), I was convinced that they would be put to use, but I promise you, there is no connector available on either the cards, or the board, to plug anything into.

The only connectors on the cards are the PCI slot itself and a small bridge connector on the top, to connect the two cards to each other (and they are). Nowhere on cards or board for the power connectors.

Couple of things I have thought of - as this machine is (hopefully) going to run Vista Ultimate, I didn't see much point in installing a floppy disk drive, and I'm wondering if the motherboard is looking for one.

I also wonder about having both graphics cards in and connected to gether with the SLI bridge connector. Is it too early for that? Will they confuse the system?

A UK buddy suggested that an analogue video signal would be available by default and that the board might require digital to be enabled afterwards. Snag is both video cards are dual DVI output, so I have 4 DVI sockets - nothing analogue (and no mention of anything similar in the manual).

hellsbrink
9th Mar 2008, 13:31
The next silly question is which graphics cards are they.

Bushfiva
9th Mar 2008, 13:46
All the LED's that are supposed to light, lit.
Exactly what lit? Numlock on the keyboard, quick flash from 3 LEDs on the keyboard?? No BIOS beeps when it started?

green granite
9th Mar 2008, 14:20
The Nvidia 8800 & 9600 series require extra power (6 pin skts) the 8400 & 8600 don't

ATI 38xx series do (6 pin and for the 3870 6 & 8pin) the 3400 & 3600 don't.

Spitoon
9th Mar 2008, 15:05
I also wonder about having both graphics cards in and connected to gether with the SLI bridge connector. Is it too early for that? Will they confuse the system?No experience of such things as SLI bits myself but as a general principle given your circumstances I would keep things as simple as possible to start with. Put together the absolute basic configuration - say, mobo, processor, one strip of RAM and one HDD - see if anything happens. You should get some beeps as it boots up if there are problems - the manual will tell you what it means - IIRC one beep means all is well. No beeps suggests that it's not even getting to the POST - in this case start to suspect the processor, check that it is correctly installed.

During boot up I think all graphics cards have a very basic mode (can't recall what it's called) which will display text, I think this should work through the DVI sockets too (but I stand to be corrected).

If that works, shut it all down and put another bit in and try again - if there's a duff part this will usually enable you to pin it down.

Just a few thoughts - hope they help.

frostbite
9th Mar 2008, 15:26
"No beeps suggests that it's not even getting to the POST"

My Dell has never beeped on bootup - except to complain about the RAM I tried to introduce to it - so that may not indicate a fault.

Keygrip
9th Mar 2008, 16:21
Okies, we progress. Back from an hour and a half troubleshooting session with "Firedog" self-proclaimed gurus at the high street mega-chain store.

Gurus highly complementary on all aspects, equipment, case, build technique - everything. All looked 100% (but didn't work, lol).

The motherboard obviously has two PCIExpress video slots. One blue, one black. One card in each, bridge across for SLI - nuth'n.

EITHER card in blue slot only brought us to full boot up and bios showing on monitor - so both video cards are good. Yay!! Any attempt to do anything with the black socket (either just one card in there on it's own (nothing in the blue one) or card sat there but not bridged) causes complete failure of the boot.

The guru's instantly go for "faulty slot on the motherboard, send it back for replacement".

Machine is now at home, running on one card, and loading Vista files from the CD.

Graphics cards, by the way are XFX, nVidia GeForce 8600GT. 512mb, DDR3, 128 bit, 540 clock, PCI Express, SLI Ready. (No idea what any of that means, lol).

There is no speaker in this case - so "No encouraging beeps" ever heard from it.

hellsbrink
9th Mar 2008, 16:45
busy downloading manual, keygrip, but THINK for two cards to work they have to be bridged.


Change that, should be ok in either blue or black slot for single card

green granite
9th Mar 2008, 17:57
The Blue skt is 16 times and the black is 8 times, do you have to set both the cards to 8x (if there is a jumper for it) or change the slot speeds in the bios?
The speed needs to be both the same I think.

Keygrip
9th Mar 2008, 19:52
Yeah, I see the word "recommended" when it says single card in blue slot - not the word "must", so either should work.

Two cards, yes, they have to be bridged to work as dual - but it *seems* that plugging anything into the black socket kills the whole system (hence the guru feeling that the mobo is faulty).

Yes, both need to run at x8 (and the blue is a x16) - not seen anything, anywhere, on how to change the rate. I've certainly not done anything deliberate.

Running fine as a single card - although only feeding one of my two monitors (both plugged into the single dual DVI card in the blue slot).

Vista is being sucked from the DVD drive and being laid out neatly on one of the hard drives.

We are getting there.

Keygrip
10th Mar 2008, 02:55
We are getting there.

Nope, apparently we are not.

Vista was sucked from the Install DVD but ended in a "black screen of death".

All the reports I have managed to find on line suggest going back to XP (or whatever) and updating drivers before doing a re-install of the dreaded Vista.

Now as this machine is a clean new build and has never had anything running on it before, "going back" is not an option.

Please, no comments on "dump it", use linux, buy a Mac (whatever) - but anything constructive would be appreciated. I found lots of on-line reports of it going wrong - no suitable reports on making it work.

If I reboot I do get the screen offereing

Safe Mode.
Safe mode with Networking.
Safe mode with Command Prompt
Last known good configuration
Start Windows Normally.

Bushfiva
10th Mar 2008, 03:16
How about buying the cheapest video card you can, get everything working with that first?

Keygrip
10th Mar 2008, 04:47
Thanx Bushfiva - you beat me to it, lol.

I'd just come back in to apologise for my frustration driven sense of humour failure.

Your suggestion may well be the way forward. Sigh.

green granite
10th Mar 2008, 08:08
If you have a XP disc I suggest you try installing XP (reformat the HD when it asks you) at least if it works ok then you know it's a Vista problem, if it doesn't it's a hardware one.

hellsbrink
10th Mar 2008, 08:15
the problem is though, gg, if his mobo is defective then that could cause issues installing things.

Silly question, keygrip. BIOS settings? (I clutching at straws at the moment since I can't see the machine, but it best to exhaust all possibilities before you dismantle everything and return the mobo)

green granite
10th Mar 2008, 11:00
the problem is though, gg, if his mobo is defective then that could cause issues installing things.

I appreciate that hellsbrink I was really suggesting that he tried XP as a way of checking it wasn't just vista causing the current probs. But it sounds to me as though he has a problem with the on board video hardware, ie the north bridge.

I think it might be a good idea to fire off an E-mail to Asus support telling them what problems he's had and asking their opinion.

Keygrip
10th Mar 2008, 11:07
Two different problems now:

The SLi is suggested as the faulty motherboard slot - but I've hunted out the telephone numbers for both the card manufacturer and the motherboard manufacturer. I'll check with both of them before making any wild decisions.

The new problem is a known conflict between Vista and (apparently) all nVidia cards. The *supplied* drivers don't immediately drive. I've discovered hundreds of messages online from people going back over two years, all complaining that when loading Vista they were immediately met by a BSOD (Black!! screen of death). Their *fix* was to restore to earlier, download new drivers (not all of which worked) and re-load Vista.

My problem here is that as the machine is a "new build", it doesn't have any access to the net, nor do I have a system restore point - so how can I possibly get the new drivers onto the clean hard drive?

hellsbrink
10th Mar 2008, 11:24
Keygrip, does the machine boot up in "safe mode"? If so, you could download the drivers on the machine you are using now, copy to cd/memory stick and then get them onto the vista machine that way.

But there has to be another issue, my vista box is running an 8600GT and I have had no issues with the drivers from the minute I set the system running. Maybe I've just been lucky.

green granite
10th Mar 2008, 14:36
Try going into the Bios and changing the RAM voltage from "Auto" to 2.1V (but no higher). Another possibility is that the PSU is faulty that could account for not working with dual video cards.

Keygrip
10th Mar 2008, 20:19
Spoke with tech support at the mobo manufacturer - they agree with the firedog muppets....there should be some life from the black socket.

Diagnosis, faulty board. RMA.

Black Screen of Death prevents doing *anything* on new machine.

Spoke to video card manufacturer, they say "Vista cannot *install* with over 3gb RAM, reduce to 2gig, re-install from zero (reformat drive), switch off an put all memory back in".

"Known issue", he says. Let's try that then, eh?

green granite
10th Mar 2008, 20:55
"Vista cannot *install* with over 3gb RAM, reduce to 2gig

The more I hear about Vista the worse it gets :ugh::ugh: ( I installed XP Pro with 4 gigs on board with no problems.)

Saab Dastard
10th Mar 2008, 21:30
"Vista cannot *install* with over 3gb RAM, reduce to 2gig, re-install from zero (reformat drive), switch off an put all memory back in".

I think that you may still need to download and apply a MS hotfix before you re-install the other 2GB - otherwise the PC may not boot after you re-insert the 2GB.

Link here (http://www.petri.co.il/cannot_install_update_windows_vista_kb929777.htm)

Good luck!

SD

hellsbrink
11th Mar 2008, 05:05
they say "Vista cannot *install* with over 3gb RAM, reduce to 2gig

Good job this Vista box was only 3Gb, I would have had to remove bits then....

But hey, they said the 8600GT had problems with Vista drivers and mine hasn't so what do I know

PS. Just remembered something from earlier regarding the gfx card, keygrip. As you were installing Vista and it dumped itself, then you wouldn't have gotten as far as getting the new drivers so that would never have been the issue. And, as a side note to EVERYONE using Winders of any kind, DO NOT install any driver updates from Windows Update! THAT is a very well known issue, always get drivers from the manufacturers site only.

Keygrip
11th Mar 2008, 10:52
Yeah, I called the card manufacturer to ask about the nVidia/Vista conflict and how to solve the driver problem with a new build that would not allow access to any video.

They were instantly adamant that there is no conflict with the cards, but that Vista will not install with over 3gb, so I have to reduce from 4 x 2gb sticks to 1 x 2gb stick, install Vista then refit the extra ram again.

They swear it will solve the problem. Possibly aggravated that it's 64 bit, so not quite so common on the forums when researching faults.

I sat and watched Vista load, all the opening screens are there (with digital video) as it asks the setup questions and "gathers information", then it unpacked 100% of files, and set itself nicely, tick/check marks at each of last three "stages" then black. I did see occassional blue screens/white text warning of "critical windows error" and "windows terminated" messages - so it seeems even Windows doesn't like Windows (though it never suggested buying a Mac or loading Linux).

I'll try the ram reduction wednesday evening, new board may go in at same time. Watch this space though, tbh, I'm not confident in it all, lol.

Thanks for your time and concerns folks. Appreciate it.

Ejector
14th Mar 2008, 04:40
A little off topic, but I was wondering with all this talk of 1000w PSU's. If you want a machine to collect a small amount of data for long lengths of time, eg, tracking stock market, would you be better off with a laptop that would not suck much electricity. Does a 1000m PSU constantly suck 1000w for the power bill. If so, would I be better with a second machine with a small PSU seeing it may be on for 24/7 collecting a smal amount of data, and not ware out the main powerfull machine?

Kind of thinking out loud here. :ok:

Bushfiva
14th Mar 2008, 05:06
Kind of thinking out loud here.

That's dangerous. People like me will come along and mock you.

Does a 1000m PSU constantly suck 1000w for the power bill

No.







Mock mock mock mockity mock mock.

hellsbrink
14th Mar 2008, 07:22
Ejector, a 1kw PSU will run happily with loads of UP TO 1000w. It'll only draw as much power as the system requires so if your PC needs 300w to run then that is all that will be used.

My motto is simple, always get the biggest PSU you can afford as, since you ain't going to run it at it's maximum load, there is less "stress" on the PSU and that means it should last a heck of a lot longer.

green granite
14th Mar 2008, 08:18
Ejector, a 1kw PSU will run happily with loads of UP TO 1000w. It'll only draw as much power as the system requires so if your PC needs 300w to run then that is all that will be used.

Being in a pedantic mood this morning, PSU's are only about 80% efficient. the odd 75W or so are converted into heat, if they were 100% efficient they wouldn't need fan cooling.

:ok:

Sorry. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i11/orangeherald/run.gif

hellsbrink
14th Mar 2008, 08:24
GG, one has to keep things simple for some who don't grasp the whole power supply thing.

PS.... Wot fans? http://www.legitreviews.com/article/125/1/ :p

green granite
14th Mar 2008, 10:58
:D:D.......................................................

Keygrip
18th Mar 2008, 04:35
Curiouser and curiouser, said Alice!

Took the RAM down to 2Gb, Vista fell into the machine within 15 minutes and runs like a dream - though any attempt to reload the extra 6Gb of RAM is being met with a blue screen (white writing) of impending death - with a statement that windows is being shut down to prevent a critical error from damaging the computer.

The video however, remains the same. Video card in blue slot, full video, no problem. Vista really zings along.

Any attempt to plug anything into the black slot - instant shut down of all video outputs - exactly as it was with the previous (faulty?) motherboard. Exactly same symptoms.

A 1hr+ telephone call to ASUS tech support went through three levels of increasingly intelligent bunnies. Each level was convinced that video should fall out of the back of the card plugged into the black socket instantly.

End result was the decision that the second motherboard also has a defective black video slot. Returns have been set up - but will likely take some time (sigh).

Tried a programme or two - SecondLife gives me 38 frames per second, my old machine gave me 1.8 fps at best. Office 2007 Ultimate is loading as I type.

I'll let you know what happens when mobo3 arrives.

Keygrip
1st Apr 2008, 03:30
See the dates? 18th March I got Vista to run sweetly - but was told by "ASUS" (the motherboard manufacturer) that the SECOND motherboard was also faulty and required replacement in order to make the dual graphics cards work. They would rush one to me.

It arrived this morning - plugged it into the machine. Poof. The whole @#$%ing thing failed.

Another lengthy call to ASUS technical support and the best the guru can come up with is, "If you send that board back to me, I will send you a new one from our factory when I receive it"

This was NOT met by a pleasant response from me - HOWEVER, one thing he did mention was the KB929777 patch - which would allow Vista to recognise the extra RAM.

I swapped the edition 3 motherboard out, and the edition 2 back in, booted up just fine - downloaded the KB patch.

I now have 8GB RAM running perfectly well. Just have to figure this dual video card now.