View Full Version : Building an American house. Part two.

Loose rivets
10th Aug 2006, 06:35
Anyone that missed the first bit let me know if it's building that gives you a buzz

Plop on the outside nearly complete

The T/V room. 100" screen on left...well it will be.

The Rivetess inspects the pantry.

The Tardis effect

How the @#[email protected]#$ do you change a 35' hi light bulb?

Wiring, American style. Mmmmm.......

A reminder of what it looked like without its skin.

10th Aug 2006, 06:50
Very Posh indeed !

That wiring doesn't look up to code though - even for a house in the colony.

Loose rivets
10th Aug 2006, 07:01
Can't find the old one but it went something like this.

Out with the old.

Pipes and steel go in.

It begins

A LOT of sticks.

Taking shape

Tyvec and lath

The wiring drives me crazy. They will take the shortest route...whatever. It must save about 50 bucks on and entire house.....but perhaps more. Come to think of it, now that the Chinese have got all the copper, wire has er, gone up. Folks are only giving quotations for 30 days for air-con etc.

I saw a reel of wire in Home Depot (B&Q type place) and I could just about have lifted it. it was for hi current like A/C and heat etc. it was $1,400 plus tax about $3 a foot. There are hundreds of fittings in this house, so I guess the routing will make people tempted to take a straight line.T

The worst thing is the plumbers cutting into the woodwork. Five verticals (all of wich help to hold the roof up) were reduced by 80% as pipes went through. Just daft.

The C-PVC plumbing is the dog's b011ox, just so quick and does not take the heat away. 400psi rating. It is supposed to have 18" of copper near the taps. not one of the five shower/baths have they done this, but they have at the water heater, so, there may have been an easing of regs. They had to wait for the inspector before the sheet-rock went in. Drains and water pipes have hi pressure in them [stained water] for a few days to test for leaks

10th Aug 2006, 07:31
Where I come from they'd call that ricketty.
Steel and concrete - that's the only way to go...

Unless you're building a shed. ;)

10th Aug 2006, 07:38
So that's where the rainforest went!! ;)

Lon More
10th Aug 2006, 10:23
How the @#[email protected]#$ do you change a 35' hi light bulb?
With a @#[email protected]#$ing 35'foot high stepladder:\

10th Aug 2006, 11:24
I'm still confused about that yellow wire. I heard it was a color coding and yellow meant 12 gage, the idea being that the inspector could easily check a 20amp circuit was hooked up with 12 gage. Our Home Depot sells 14 gage yellow though, so maybe it's just a more slippery sheathing.

I've seen the CPVC stuff but never used it. I never reall knew what it was for. Do you glue i like regular PVC or is is compression fitings? Have you ever seen Qest? It was grey. I had a house with that in once.

If Cu is that expensive...I really really hope they don't go back to Aluminum wiring :yuk:

10th Aug 2006, 11:38
How the @#[email protected]#$ do you change a 35' hi light bulb?
With a @#[email protected]#$ing 29'foot high stepladder :\

Lon More
10th Aug 2006, 13:18
35 feet minus 29 feet leaves 6 feet. Try balancing on top of that ladder and the last sound you make may be Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh!:cool:

10th Aug 2006, 16:28
But it's a US house, so where is the armoury? (or is that armory?)

10th Aug 2006, 18:49

...35 feet minus 29 feet minus two feet because you're not on the top step leaves 8 feet, which equals...

six feet, plus the extra two feet you get from stretching your arm out :8

and yes I HAD taken that into consideration :(

Lon More
10th Aug 2006, 19:36
But I'm only 5 foot 2 whivh still leaves me going Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh!

Loose rivets
10th Aug 2006, 20:37
Yep, C-PVC is primed and glued. A good period of use here gives me confidence to use it, and I have found that the only tedious part is reaming/de-burring the inner cut. Most folk don't bother, then wonder why a complex shower head fails. I also test it with 100psi air first and leave it overnight. A dodgy one, and there is far less mess.

If you use it, HOLD THE JOINT TIGHT FOR 20 SECS. A strange hydraulic effect will sometimes push the pipe part-way out again till the glue sets. True also for heavy PVC.

Wipe pipes clean. Leaving blobs of glue is bad for the pipe.

NEVER BUY A HOUSE WITH GREY PIPE. It busts, according to a web-site here: usually on the junctions, but not always.

I used Hep20 in the UK, that was grey, but seemed quite good. But only on gravity pressure.

The dado rail on the outside is polystyrene with a mesh and some grey stuff plopped on. The builder must have built aircraft in another life. (Aircraft link there!!):}

The strange fact is that, all of that tonnage of cement, 1 1/2" at least, is all held on the wood by nails holding the metal lath. :yuk:

Loose rivets
10th Aug 2006, 20:42
Where I come from they'd call that ricketty.
Steel and concrete - that's the only way to go...
Unless you're building a shed. ;)

Yep, me house in Essex had 47 feet of 12" RSJ running along the back. The 10" thinck floor of the veranda was set into the beam.

Three of us carried two RSJs up to the new attic I built, then I floored it all in good chip, then I filled the attic with stuff sat back for ten years...then took most of the stuff down the dump....and sold the house to a bloke who wouldn't have cared if the place was made of cardboard.

Unless you're building a shed Oooh, yes, me shed....twas made of the left overs from a project 30 years ago. Full foundations, faced brick then stucco on block. The bloke has pulled it down I'm told.