How To Post Photographs and Videos (incl photography tips from the gurus)

[Heliport]

It is NOT possible to post pictures direct from your hard drive.
Pictures must already be on a website - whether your own or someone else's.
If the picture you'd like to post is not on a website: Read Section 2 first.(All instructions below for posting pictures are for MS Windows users. I don't know the AppleMac system.)



(1) Posting pictures already on a website

Every picture has an 'URL' (the unique 'address' of that pic on the web). The URL usually ends with .jpg, but sometimes with .gif or .bmp
Find the URL:
Right-click on the picture
Select 'Properties' - one of which is the 'URL' of the picture.
Highlight the URL:

Always highlight from the beginning (or use 'Select all') or you may not get the full URL if it's very long.
Copy the URL.
Now go to Rotorheads and begin to post in the normal way.
To insert your picture, click the IMG button: http://www.pprune.org/forums/images/editor/insertimage.gif (It's one of the buttons above the text box.)

A dropdown menu will appear
Paste the entire URL into the address line as instructed
Click OK
Your picture will be displayed
Now add some information about the picture - What, where, when etc
Repeat as required for each picture
Submit
Voila! We'll all be able to enjoy your pictures. :ok:
Tip: I find it easier to have two browser windows open at the same time, especially if I'm posting more than one picture: One for Photobucket and one for Rotorheads.

Size is important!
Picture width should not exceed 900 pixels Maximum.
Photobucket has a facility to reduce the size of any pics which are too big for a web page.



NB: Copyright claims etc

In Rotorheads, we do NOT allow pictures which have names (personal or business), e-mail addresses, website addresses, copyright claims etc embedded or attached.
See: Copyright Claims: Rotorheads Forum Rule (http://www.pprune.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=133982)

You're free to name the photographer in the text - but please don't make it an advert or you'll fall foul of the PPRuNe's strict 'No Advertising' rule.

(2) Pictures on your hard disk

Use a web 'photo-hosting' service.
Upload your pictures.
Then follow the instructions above.NB: Some photo-hosting services do not allow you to direct link. (eg Geocities, Tripod, Airliners.net) The picture may appear when you first post it but it will disappear - sometimes replaced by an advertisement for the host's website.


Free web 'photo-hosting' services
I experimented with a few photo-hosting services some time ago, and found PhotoBucket (http://www.photobucket.com/) to be the best. I've used it regularly for a long time and have never had any problems.
A basic account is free - and is sufficient for most purposes.
Uploading photos is very simple - just follow the instructions.

Photobucket users: Posting pictures could not be easier.

Upload your pictures to Photobucket.
Go to your album and choose the picture you want to post.
Under the 'thumbnail' of that picture you'll see 3 boxes.
Left click on the 'IMG Code' box. This will automatically copy the image code for you. A yellow "Copied" flag will pop up. If it doesn't, highlight and copy the code manually.
Now go to Rotorheads and begin a new post in the usual way.
You are now ready to paste the code you've copied.
Right click, and select "paste" from the drop-down menu.
The image code will appear.
Depending upon the editing mode selected, you'll see either your picture or a code.
Add some information about the photograph.
Repeat the process for any further pictures.
When you've finished copying your pictures, submit your post in the normal way.
Troubleshooting

As with any new process involving computers, you may at first go through some http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v144/Heliport/pc-crash.gif.


(1) Your post displays a link (not a picture):

Click the http://www.pprune.org/forums/images/buttons/edit.gif button to edit your post.
Check to see if 'URL' appears anywhere in the web address of the picture. If it's there at all, it will be there twice.
Remove both.(You've used information from the URL, but those letters should not appear in the final address or you'll get a link instead of a picture.)
If all else fails ..... READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.(2) Your post displays a http://www.pprune.org/forums/images/editor/insertimage.gif instead of a picture:

Click the http://www.pprune.org/forums/images/buttons/edit.gif button to edit your post.
Look at the URL.
Does the URL start with 'http' and end with jpg, bmp or gif? If it doesn't, your picture will not display.
Make sure there are no spaces between [/img] at the end and at the beginning.
If you've copied the URL manually instead of copying & pasting, you might have left something out. Even one letter or digit will prevent the picture from displaying.
If all else fails ..... READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.

(3) You still can't resolve the problem?

Leave the post in place and I'll try to find where you've gone wrong and resolve it.
It's not always possible, but I can in more than 90% of instances.
It may seem tricky the first time but, once you've posted a picture successfully,
you'll wonder why you couldn't do it first time. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/Rotorheads/ComputerSmiley.gif



Heliport http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/Rotorheads/HeliportSmiley.gif

[SilsoeSid]

Good morning Gentlemen,

How on Earth do some of these photos come to be so clear? I am amazed at the quality of the pics posted by 407 above, and of the last competions entries.

I have a 5 mill pix dig camera and an old SLR with all the lenses. Am I better off taking pics at super high quality (2Mb) / TIFF (15Mb) digitally, or should I take a pic on wet film and scan the negative?

I can't seem to get the clarity of most contributers. Perhaps I should move to the mountains for the clear air, rolling countryside and glacial waterfalls. If only....


Thanks,

SS

[mike papa delta]

SilsoeSid - hope I am not telling you something you already know but using a fast shutter speed might help. If your camera is on auto it may be using a slow shutter speed to compensate for low light - common occurence in this grey isle - thus increasing the likelihood of camera-shake which will give unsharp images...

A rule of thumb is to use a shutter speed the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens ie if you are using a 200mm telescopic lense use a shutter speed no slower than a 200th of a second, or if using a 85mm lens no slower than an 85th of a second and so on. Camera-shake is also more noticable with telescopic lenses than wide-angle ones.

Of course it is often impossible to alter any of these settings on point and shoot digital cameras...

[SilsoeSid]

Thanks MPD, although its a small digital camera, I've got to get back to all the ISO, Aperture, Shutter settings etc once more.

Just greenly impressed by the clarity of previous posts.
Are people using digital SLRs, (Must be paid too much!) or compact cameras? Anyone using wet film?

Sorry if this all sounds spottery, but these questions will hopefully enhance the picture taking abilities of both myself and other fellow 'rotorheads', in order to appreciate our fine machines in the light that they so deserve. :yuk: :ok:

[Autorotate]

SS - Bit of advice. Whenever shooting helos try and keep as close as possible, without meshing blades of course as this will allow you to use less focal length, hence a sharper image as it has less glass to travel through to get exposed on the film.

I NEVER shoot more than 160th of a second when shooting helicopters as you then start to get the blades stopped on the helo and that is one of my pet hates. Bit of advice there for people who do this with their images - If blades look stopped while the helicopter is in flight then no point in even entering them in a competition as they get passed over from that point on. Best image shows slight movement blur in the blades.

If you get a lot of movement blur in the blades even better. A couple of your previous ones did have some good blur and looked great. If you can ever afford a gyro stabiliser for your SLR camera then thats the way to you. I had one, broke it and am awaiting a new one. They are worth their weight in gold and allow you to shoot down to 1 sec exposures.

I myself dont shoot digital, only shoot slide film and then scan them in on a Nikon Coolscan slide scanner. The best way to get good images even sharper, including your digital ones, is to use a program such as Photoshop Elements or Adobe Photoshop. Use the Unsharp Mask feature and this will sharpen that image more. I always scan in at 8in x 10 inch and then unsharp mask and resize. Gives you a nice sharp and crisp image.

When shooting helicopters always remember to try and capture the dynamic role of the helicopter. Shooting a helicopter sitting on a ramp somewhere will not win you any competitions, unless its an amazing sunset or sunrise background. However showing the helicopter working in its natural environment is always a winner. (I will try and scan a few in to show you what I am referring to).

When shooting helicopters try and look for unusual angles. For example SS when shooting the Explorer think about shooting it from behind while slightly above, and then get them to do a bank but you stay following them. I did this type of shot with Huntington Beach PD and their MD520N and looked awesome. Maybe a direct overhead shot looking down on the Explorer with a police car slightly offset to one side with suspects in cuffs etc. Think outside the square. Some of the best shots I ever got of ag helicopters were laying down in the paddock shooting up at them as they came over the top of me, great angle and unique pics.


The slide film I use is Fujichrome Velvia (50) and Velvia 100. Where weather is a factor will use Provia 100 or 400 but thats not very often. The best times of day for shooting is either before 10am or after 2pm as the sun angle is about equal to the side of the subject. The colour saturation of the Velvia slide film is awesome and is the best for any type of aviation and outdoor photography. If you have to use print film then choose something that has high colour saturation and make sure you tell whoever prints the film to increase the colours a bit. Unfortunately with print film you have no control over the final end product, you have to rely on the minilab operator that is processing your film, whereas with slide film, what I shoot is what I get.

Hope that this info helps.

Regards

Autorotate.

[imabell]

ss,

don't use too high a shutter speed, just leave it on auto or program, usually the camera knows best. if you shoot too fast the moving object looks as if it is static hanging on a string.

the main problem with digital cameras is they don't always take consistant exposures even if you take two or three in a row. unlike film. just keep at it.

we shoot hundreds of frames digitally every week and have to colour correct just about all of them. with practice on the computer you will get the result that you want.

the best photo editing application is adobe photoshop if you have a few spare bucks. it takes a while to learn but there are a few things that you can make it do automatically that will really bring the image up.

send me a photo you like that is a bit off and i will show you the difference.


:ok:

[Autorotate]

Imabell - I disagree about letting digital cameras do it themselves as it will always choose a higher shutter speed if its a nice and bright day. When shooting helos you NEVER want anything faster than a 160th or 200th max shutter speed. Try it out with your 47s and you will see what I mean.

Regards

Autorotate.

[SilsoeSid]

Thank you all for the advice. I shall print it all out and experiment tomorrow, at a helicopter operator somewhere in the North of England.

"Reciprocal of the focal length of the lens", blimey, I may have to sit down a while to work all that out. Just goes to show how much planning goes into those crisp pics.

The good thing about digital is that it saves the wasted cost of processing the duff pics.

Mmmmm....Duff http://www.stopstart.fsnet.co.uk/Gif/SIMPDuff.gif

[mike papa delta]

Autorotate - I certainly bow down to your superior knowledge of taking photographs of helicopters, and keeping some sense of movement in the rotorblades was something I didn't consider in my rant!

"Reciprocal of the focal length of the lens" = fancy talk for "convert the number of the size of the lens (eg 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, 200mm) into as close a fraction of a second (best to go higher than lower if you are concerned) as your camera will let you (eg 1/28th, 1/35th, 1/50th, 1/85th, 1/200th repectively")! This should give you a shutter speed that will eliminate obvious camera-shake when handholding the camera. Only works with 35mm cameras I think... And as with most rules there are often reasons when not to use it...

Apologies for all the brackets...

[407 Driver]

SID, FYI, I use an entry level Digital SLR camera....the Nikon D-70. (approx $1,500 CAD plus a lens)
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0001LFRIS.01-A1PY46IM1CBEG3.LZZZZZZZ.jpg
It's a 6.1 Megapixel camera, uses any Nikon AF type lens, and stores to Compact-Flash type cards.
I never let the camera decide much in the way of aperature, exposure white balance, ISO, etc, I've found the auto settings just don't do it for me.
I shoot at full res in .jpeg mode (2.5 Mg files), never done anything with raw or .tiff.


Wet film? who can afford it?, on a good day I'll take 100+
shots ...

My only secret...take lots of pics, think of different angles, shoot shoot, shoot.

I've flown Pro's from National Geographic Magazine in the past. They typically use 2 camera bodies, and an assistant to change film. All you hear form the back seat is a whirr of clicking. I flew on one project for a week, and only 6 shots made it to the magazine.

[SilsoeSid]

Thanks again,

I did look at SLR cameras, mainly to use the variety of lenses I have already. However because they are all manual focus, they are as much use as a braille porno mag.

With the price of an entry level digital SLR in the region of £750 (body only), it's a little too pricey.

Fortunately the small one that I have, has the ability to be manipulated however I choose.......That's my camera I'm talking about. :oh:

Agreed, lots of pics jpg mode, TIFFS seem to love battery power.

Off to do some shooting,

SS

[John Eacott]

SSid,

While we're on the types of camera, if you're flying SP and planning on taking photos, most SLR size bodies are not feasible, being just too bulky. At the other end, the compact (Canon Exus, etc) size is not user friendly for one handed operation when in a flat format :rolleyes:

FWIW, I chose the Nikon 5000 (now superceded, but its successor is the same size) as a compact but one handed 5mp Digital. Quite cheap now (<$A900) and excellent capabilities along with a fold out screen, making it easier to line up for that essential shot out of the side window in flight ;)

[SilsoeSid]

SP and taking pictures :ooh:
The way I look at it is, that if I get my camera out, 'birds' do 1 of 2 things.

1. Shy away.
2. Get in frame as much as they can.

In my case;
For the human variety #1 applies. :{
For the feathered variety #2 applies. :{

[SilsoeSid]

As an update from my learnings so far.

ISOs, much like 'wet films' higher ISOs allow for better pics in the dark or for speed. However the higher the number, from what I can gather, the more grainy the picture will appear.
Either keep ISO setting on auto or use high ISO for the correct time and place.

Quality\resolution settings. My camera has settings for;
SQ2 640X480, 1024X768, 1280X960,1600X1200.
SQ1 2048X1536.
TIFF/SHQ/HQ 2560X1920.

As I am after a high resolution, I am on one of the 2560x1920 settings. However the SHQ and TIFF pictures seem to be of a lower quality although bigger files.
From what I have found out, this is because of re-sampling where the computer adds more pixels using electronic guess work. (Interpolation?)
'My' guess work says, stick to HQ.

[Autorotate]

SS - Yes the higher the ISO rating the grainier the image. For example I only ever shoot ISO 50 or 100, thats Fuji Velvia 50 and 100 ISO films. The colour saturation on these is awesome and they are the best available for daylight photography.

Only when it starts becoming a very dull day, or even into the early evening would I use anything around 400 ISO. However saying that I have done some awesome evening type shots with long exposure times but these have all been on the end of a tripod for stability.

I would suggest you find a static subject, and then shoot it on all the various settings of the camera, writing down each setting as you go, and then when you download them to your computer have a look at them and see the differences each one has. Also do it on a ****ty day and see what each produces. This way you also get to know your camera and its little idiosyncricies (not sure of spelling :)

Hope that helps.

Autorotate.

[Autorotate]

SS - For your info this is what I take with me whenever I head off for a photo shoot overseas somewhere.

2 x Canon EOS1V Bodies
1 x 18-35 2.8L Series Canon Lens
1 x 28-70 2.8L Series Canon Lens
1 x 70-200 2.8L Series Canon Lens
Canon 540EZ Flash Unit
1 x 35-350 Canon L Series Lens
4 Packs of Batteries
At Least 20 rolls of Velvia 50 or 100

Also have a 100-300 Canon Pro Image Stablised Lens but dont like it.

All carried in a pilots helmet bag. They are great because they have pockets on the inside and outside which makes things much easier.

Have always used Canon because in my opinion with Nikon you are paying more for the name than anything else, and in fact the focusing system on the Canon EOS system is much faster.

Hope this info helps.

Regards

Autorotate.

P.S. Had a great photoshoot yesterday here in Auckland with 2 x EC130s in formation with a BK117 tagged on the end for some of it.

[SilsoeSid]

After all the great advice here, I ventured out and took some shots the other night.

The Airport Fire Service called to see if it was OK to do some training around 'Molly', the cloud was still low so they they came over.

The potential for a great shot wasn't realised until quite late, the Cadbury man must have brought some samples in!

Once it clicked, I rushed out with camera and tripod in hand. Realising the fire persons were soon to depart. Set up camera, attempted to take shot by remote to reduce any shake, but was unable to, I hadn't set it up in the settings.
Took a quick shot, flash went off, didn't want it to.

Reset camera settings. Activated remote facility, turned flash off etc. Managed to take 10 or so shots before the fire crews set off on their way home.

Went back to the computer for a 'butchers' at the results of my newly found skills only to find, you guessed it;

The best pic was the very first one, with all the wrong settings, taken on auto, with a flash, and button pressed by hand. Typical.

The result is at the site where the competition is now being held, and at the rotorheads gallery (http://www.pprune.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1530618#post1530618)

[jumpseater]

I use a similar equipment set up to Autorotate, having done a bit of free-lancing sports/news/landscape stuff. I also use similar film stock, but for poor light ie rainy day at soccer match, I will use Fuji Superia 800asa print film, which still gives good colour saturation and the grain is acceptable. Think of film grain like you would pixellation in digital terms.

In respect of lenses go for the highest spec you can afford. They will have the best quality optics, and go for those with a low 'f' number i.e 2.8. Grossly simplified, these types of lenses can let more light in to the camera, and can give far more options to a photographer in a creative sense as you get more experienced.
Here's one I did earlier, using Canon EOS1n-HS body and their 18-35 2.8L lens.

http://easyjet.com/common/img/photo020.jpg

Note in focus from Boeing writing less than 0.5m away from me, to the clouds above! This is hand held and with circular polarising filter used. Original print on Kodak Portra 160VC, this is a professional print film that can accentuate some colours, so for sunsets etc, it can be quite useful to have a film like this. Autorotates film suggestions will give good vibrant natural colours, I also use Fuji Superia print film of 200 and 400asa. Another alternative to a tripod is a small bean bag about the size of your normal airport lounge paperback. You can settle a camera on it, on a car roof for example, and set a timed shot to get around camera shake.

PS why dont you like the image stabilised 100-300 mr A?

[AllJeep]

Autorotate:
When shooting digital there is no need to write down all off the settings for each picture shot. When you open the image in the bundled software or a professional package like PhotoShop, all of the camera and image settings are imbedded into the image. On a Mac you can "Get Info" and in Windows I think you view the image "Properties". This will allow you to view shutter speed, f-stop ISO etc. On some cameras you can even view the Histogram (but I wont get into that here).

The camera that 407 Driver has is a great camera but I personally prefer Canon glass and overall Canon has produced the best CCD sensors on the market. For the same price Canon just released the 8.2 Mega pixel Canon EOS 20D DSLR (http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Canon/canon_eos20d.asp). Price for the body is $1500.00 and you can get the kit for $1999.99 (Body and Lens).

If a DSLR is out of your price range you might want to consider these two SLR-Like digital cameras
If I were to recommend two cameras that are not DSLR it would be the:
Canon PowerShot G6 7.1 Mega Pixel (http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Canon/canon_g6.asp)
& the
Canon PowerShot Pro1 8.0 Mega Pixel (http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Canon/canon_pro1.asp)

If you ever wanted to learn about Digital Photography and the equipment, here are two of the most invaluable web sites that I know of:
http://www.dpreview.com/
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/

[helibiz]

I am about to buy a new camera either digital or film slr, any advice on what to buy I have cannon lens x 3 already. Plan to spend about <3,000 aud leaning towards digital. Wahts the latest best buy???

[jumpseater]

As I've got Canon lenses I would look at the new EOS20d, alternatively as this one comes out, the EOS10d should drop in price, not used either though.

I use a EOS1nhs (UK) and an EOS3 as back up. I sometimes take soccer shots so a fast motordive is essential, 7 frames per second. Both the bodies I use have more functions than you can point a stick at, and have full manual control too. One issue you will come across is that they weigh quite a bit, but you get used to that, mine have stood up to use in snow and heavy rain too, without any adverse effects, They are in effect pro camera's with pro specs, so you will pay accordingly. having said that the top end film SLR's are becoming more affordable ad digital for pro's becomes more widespread. Find a good shop and spend time there talking to someone who knows about the stock, not a spotty yoof from your local discount house!
rgds js

[Blind]

Silsoe Sid

I used to be a complete digital sceptic but sold my SLR and lenses and got a digital camera and have been highly impressed.

You said yours is just a little one (OER) I have a Canon IXUS 500 and the only complaint I have is that the auto focus is a bit crap. You have to push the button half way down to focus then all the way to take pic. It's excellent when it focuses but easy to take an out of focus pic without realising it. A splash of beer at a party on the button didn't help. This could be your problem or sound really patronising if it's not!!!

Happy snapping

Blind.

I took all my ATPL exams at Silsoe :\ :yuk: :\

[MD900 Explorer]

I shoot with a Sony Cybershot 5.1 and it works quite well, but the issue i have is trying to slow the shutter speed down. I know that there is a function there, but alas, i have no idea what the numbers mean in the setting!! :confused:

When i take the shots now, the camera is in auto mode, and no matter how hard i try, i cant get the damn blades to blur, they always stop. :uhoh:

Any help would be appreciated.

MD :{

[jumpseater]

Not being familiar with the cybershot i would start looking here so to speak.
see in the manual if it has a 'Manual' setting. If it has work out how to set the shutter speed at between 60th to 125th of a second shutter speed, this should start to get you towards the results you are after.

[MD900 Explorer]

Jumpseater

Thanks for the input. I shall give it a whirl, and see what happens.

Regards

MD :ok:

[AllJeep]

MD900

Not positive if this is your camera (you didn't specify what model) but on the dial of your camera you have to switch it to M. This will allow you to shot in Manual mode and override the automatic settings. Try taking the same picture at all different shutter speed and aperture settings and you'll get the hang of it.

Here is a pic of the dial.
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonydscf717/Images/topcontrols.jpg

[Phoenix Rising]

A number of you have sent me PMs asking about aviation photography, digital cameras, what works best and what doesnt etc.

Here is the best place to ask all those questions and more. The guys on this forum can answer all your aviation photography questions and then some, and in fact are some of the best in the aviation photography business.

http://www.fencecheck.com

So ask away and then come back and post the images you have shot after talking to them. Will assure you that their comments will enable you to shoot much better images for posting on the Rotorheads at Work thread.

Cheers

PR :E

[heliant]

Can any please advise me of the best lenses to have for some aerial photography for a canon 20d camara,
thanks

[BlenderPilot]

It depends on the subject, the altitude at which you will be flying, but if you were to have only one I would use a Canon 28-135 IS, about 500 dollars, sharp in all ranges, extremely fast an reliable autofocus, good contrast, Arthus Bertrand used this lens a lot even if not an L lens.

[AlanM]

Depending on the platform, I use a 70-200mm F2.8L IS and a 100-400mm L IS on my 1Dmk2.

Have used them on the 20D as well and perform very well.

(Most of the images here (http://www.pbase.com/kbmphotography) are with those lens')

[Rich Lee]

Alan, the shot of you in the Apache (KBM3821), did you enhance the image or is your camera equipped with a special lens to cut through the canopy glare? I have never seen a shot directly into the cockpit were the subject is captured with such clarity.

[Bravo73]

Rich Lee,

Without putting words into AlanM's mouth, I suspect that Dr Photoshop might've helped out with that shot. Otherwise, surely the rear crewman would have a similar level of clarity...

But I guess that only Alan knows for sure.


(Great series of shots though. Wasn't the Mig display simply amazing?)

[Rich Lee]

The MIG display? Agreed. I haven't seen a fighter display command the attention of the crowd as did that of the MIG at Farnborough; with the possible exception of the X-31 in Paris some years ago. Outstanding display that proves even older fighter pilots can still show young fighter pilots a thing or two - with the right aircraft of course!

Alan's photographs are great. I can only wish that I had Alan's ability to record the moment capturing the essence of flight so often. There are many great photographers who post on Pprune and I admire them one and all.

My camera prefers the out-of-focus technique where the subject is nearly in frame for that psuedo artsy fartsy effect. :ugh:

[jumpseater]

I think Alan may have tweeked the image to get the clarity of the gunner, not that theres anything wrong with that at all. One way rich is to get a polarising filter, if you're camera can take one. This fits on the end of the lens and at certain angles cut through glare to give a similar effect to that shown in Alans pic, but over the whole glazed area. They can also help to give that 'holiday brochure' deep blue sky.

[Ned-Air2Air]

Jumpseater - There is a slight difference between getting rid of some of the glare and turning an Apache windscreen into seen thru :ok: :ok:

I would say he has selected the area around his face and then used various photoshop techniques to isolate it and sharpen it and basically make it seem as though the glass is see thru.

With regards to the colour settings I basically set my camera settings to saturated and that gives me the most to work with. I personally like to see deep colours on my images, but like everything its all personal preference.

Ned

[soupisgoodfood]

the main problem with digital cameras is they don't always take consistant exposures even if you take two or three in a row. unlike film. just keep at it.

we shoot hundreds of frames digitally every week and have to colour correct just about all of them. with practice on the computer you will get the result that you want.

Either your camera is a bit on the basic side, or you don't know how to use it. Both of my non-DSLR cameras, that are 4-5 years old, allow you to set the while balance, so you get consistant colour.

[movin' on]

Folks, was it my immagination or was there another thread which went into greater detail re taking shots of heli's. Did the search but I don't seem to be very successfull in that area?:ugh:
Cheers MO

[movin' on]

Ned,
am about to buy my first digital SLR. Have some Canon glass (alas not "L") 28-135 IS & 75-300 IS so a Canon DSLR is the go. Have been waiting for the crop factor to be overcome....hey presto here's the 5D.
So the package options are 5D...that's it... no extra glass no nothin! Or the 30d and some glass either the 17-40 f/4L or if it's really worth it the 16-35 f2.8L for less than the 5D body alone.
In the short term I will be shooting lots of heli's and ice/snow so light is probably not much of an issue, but during the regular season will be doing mostly landscapes (with the odd heli in the background).
I am also scouring various photo websites...any advice gladly taken.
Cheers MO:ok:

[BigMike]

Check this site out:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/

There is a lot of information on this site as well as info from the Pros.

I went though this decision recently, and chose the 30D so I could afford a better lens ( 24-70 f2.8L) Im really happy with it.
Problem is, now I want to go and spend vast sums of money on more "L" lenses!!

[Ned-Air2Air]

Mike - I know what you mean, this is what I have in my camera bag.

2 x Canon EOS 1DS MKII's

1 x 16-35mm Canon Lens

1 x 15mm Canon Lens

1 x 28 - 70 2.8L Canon Lens

1 x 70 - 200 2.8L IS Canon Lens

1 x 300 2.8L IS Canon Lens

Going to get the 400 next.

Ned

[BigMike]

Gee Ned, only need to save about $8000 US to equal that lenses collection!!! ;)

Can you post some pics from the 300 f2.8L IS ?

Cheers BM

[jumpseater]

Mine's a similar bag to Neds, no 15mm though and one 35mm body

Ned if you're in the UK sometime, and you want to feel the weight of a 400, pm me!

[Ned-Air2Air]

Jumpseater - Actually just upgraded my gear lately, bought a new Canon EOS 1DS MK 3 and a new 70-200 2.8L lens. Gave my editor one of the 1DS MK2 bodies so he has also been upgraded.

The new 300 2.8L I have with the 1.4 x converter works really well. Just been trying it out while here in Borneo heli logging.

Ned

[Octane]

I have some interesting photo's/ video of 767 in action on Easter Sunday in Perth suburbs firefighting. I need help to upload....

Captain of 767 or friends, you there?

Cheers

Octane

[IHL]

Hi:

As a suggestion, you could up load the video on you-tube and then attach a link.

[nrh]

Can anyone offer any tips on aerial photography from the pilot's point of view?

As someone who has only taken aerials very informally (by poking a camera out of the DV window as the world goes by!), I wonder if there are any established preferred methods/procedures? I expect some forward speed is desirable from a safety point of view (single engine), and the options are linear runs past the subject or orbits around/to one side.

Is it generally accepted to operate sorties doors off, with the photographer using a harness from the back seat, assuming a larger machine?

Is the R22 practical to reduce costs?

Sorry for so many questions - I'd really appreciate any comments to help with some pics that I'd like to take!

[darrenphughes]

The R22 is fine if you and your photographer aren't too heavy. When it comes to high hovers you just need to be careful, with power limits and wind direction. Most days, out of ground effect hovering with a tail wind just isn't possible in the R22, depending on the OAT.

Most photographers I fly with don't want anything too ridicules when it comes to altitudes. For the most part they're happy with a 40-50kt orbit. But the kind of shots they need is what will ultimately determine what they ask for. If you do a good preflight briefing on what they need beforehand, with satellite shots of the site, you should be able to determine if you can give them the angle they want. If a guy is asking for 200-300AGL hover you better make sure he is on the side of the helicopter that will put you facing into the wind with a big sexy open field beneath you while he takes his shots! Keep in mind that the controls aren't removable on the right side of the R22 , so if he needs to be on that side, it could be a problem.

When operating doors off, make sure everything in the cockpit, including the stuff in the occupants pockets is secure. Phones and coins have a habit of falling out of pockets while sitting, and the last thing you need is one of them stuck in your tail rotor! It's best to have the camera tethered also.

Make sure you do a proper recon of the area you'll be flying around, especially when operating below 500AGL. The photographer may not want to waste time and money flying around in circles for a few minutes before you descend but explain that is all part of what needs to be done to keep him from getting dead. Also don't forget about other air traffic while focusing on your recon.

Most photographers want the R22 for the obvious cost reasons. But sometimes when you explain that they may get better shots from a more stable platform they'll fork out the extra dosh.

Don't forget to give the photographer the passenger briefing and all that good safety stuff, especially when they're not used to shooting from a helicopter.

Also, the altitudes you operate at for a given ship(single engine, or multi) may depend on the regulations. In the US, people generally don't mind where you operate, as long as you don't squish anyone on the ground in the event of a problem. If it's legal, you should maybe as a courtesy contact the local police and let them know what you'll be doing. That way, when the crazies call complaining, they can shut them up fairly lively!! This may or may not make your life a lot easier depending on the area and the views of the local police department on helicopters flying over their area.

[ReverseFlight]

From a photographer's point of view, an open doorway provides the best view. Very often the sun's position dictates the shooting position (eg of the front of a mansion for a real estate broker) and because the shot is from the LHS (assuming it's an R22), you may require a downwind shot. If you're asked to move forward a bit, don't forward cyclic ! You'll settle with power and crash. Rather pedal turn to the left into wind, continue into a small orbit and move into a new downwind position. Beware of LTE.

For "plan view" shoots, the pilot should execute a medium left turn towards the target and once over the target, go into a steep left turn so that the shot can be taken top down from the LHS at the exact moment. It might take a couple of tries to get it perfect but the experience is exhilerating.

For sideways flight, make sure your rotor disc has some airspeed over transition/translation as the ASI will be useless.

Storytime : One of our most experienced instructors had to do a downwind HOGE at 1000' AGL at an airshow with the shots taken out the LHS of a Jetranger. After about an hour's of hovering he decided enough was enough and switched to a Squirrel into wind with shots out the RHS - it very much depends how your shooting platform is set up and what limitations the organiser imposes on you in these events.

[Jonasraf]

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/jonasraf/5008_92705898534_823013534_1945999_.jpg

I used to fly very often with this photographer. He liked to see his objects directly beneath him so usualy we did 40 to 60 degees turns around the subject at good altitudes around 800 to 1000 feet AGL.
He had a harness which was hooked to the centre seatbelts, as well as being in his seat belt (very loose).

Photographic flights are good fun. Enjoy

http://www.fo.is/images/080308_Reykjav_k_AIR_1436_14.jpg
One image from him. Fridrik Örn Hjaltested

[firebird_uk]

I have found that a 44 with the rear pilot side door removed works well because you can see pretty much what the photographer is seeing. This can often save time as there are less re-takes.

From my understanding (and the result of several prosecutions by the CAA) a photography flight is public transport. Therefore, you must be base and lined and the machine must be being operated under an AOC.

This also opens a can of worms with regard to operating with the left door(s) removed. SN-30 from Robinson states that you should never fly with the left door removed. See Here (http://www.robinsonheli.com/srvclib/rchsn30.pdf)

So as a CPL(H) (or higher) that, presumably, wants to keep their license I would say that the 22 is not suitable for photographic work as the manufacturer states that it cannot be flown safely with the LHS door removed.

I'm sure others will have a different point of view.....

[Gordy]

I will add to and contradict some of what others have said. I have conducted many photo flights over the years and even had an aerial photo/video company for a few years. Low level video shooting is a whole another topic which I will not get into right now, but for real estate and scenic photography from a pilots perspective, here are my recommendations, in no particular order:

1. The R-22 will do fine for most shoots---the Schweizer is better, and a 500 or Astar is even better, (they allow the photographer to sit on the same side as you---or switch seats for the best angle.

2. Planning is everything---especially in built up areas. You should be able to get in, get the shots and get out with no more than 3 orbits. Preview the area on google earth, have the photographer take ground shots to show you. The photographer should have a shot list---once you are over the site it is too late---and shows an unprofessional photographer. Also the photographer should have done his research and thought of things like garbage day, (not good shots with garbage cans in the streets), also make sure the target property knows which day you will be shooting, that way they can cut the grass etc.... With proper planning, it is amazing how much you can get done--Over downtown Orlando, I would average 10 properties per hour, however, I would average 2 hours of planning for each hour in the air. I would overlay my route on google earth, and have printouts of what the property looked like---especially identifying markers.

3. Contrary to what Darren says---you cannot afford to do high recons, you will annoy the neighborhood, and people WILL complain. Three orbits in and out, should avoid the complainers. Rarely should you need to go below 300 feet in a built up area---therefore no high recon required---it just starts announcing your presence. If a photographer wants you to go "low level" in a built up area, he needs to be educated that he could get the same shot by flying further out and using a more powerful lens. Generally, the professionals will not have a problem with this.

4. Approaching the site, you would identify the target and go right into shooting mode. Generally, I would take 8 shots per orbit for two orbits---one at around 500 feet, one around 750 feet. Alternate with tight and wider shots. Then on departing, we would get a real wide shot. This way there is no need to hover.

5. The pilot and photographer need to be talking the same language...for example-- "come left", does this mean apply "left pedal", "drift left" or "turn left". This avoids confusion. I have my own "language" which I will share:
Left---------------------apply left pedal
Right--------------------apply right pedal
Come around left---------bank left and turn to come around
Come around right--------bank right and turn to come around
My way------------------drift sideways TOWARDS the photographer
Your way----------------drift sideways TOWARDS the pilot side of aircraft
Bank out----------------tilt the aircraft away from the target--blades in the frame..

6. Even though you may think differently, this is NOT a job for low time pilots. There can be a lot of sideways flying, and flying on the "backside" of the powercurve, (if you have to ask---you are not ready for it). It comes down to confidence and familiarity with the aircraft AND airspace environment you will be in. Generally speaking, a higher time pilot will do better than a lower time pilot.

7. Be careful of regulations. Here in the US, if you land away from your departure point for fuel--this can be considered a 135 flight. FAR 91.119, (minimum safe altitudes), can be interpreted differently by different FSDO's. Most companies that do this work professionally have an FAA approved "Motion Picture Manual" and certificate. This allows the FAA to grant waivers of regulations to designated pilots who abide by the procedures laid out in the manual.

Hopefully I have answered most questions---if I think of more I will post---or feel free to ask.

[VeeAny]

Firebird

The word 'never' seems to be the bit that causes so much consternation in that SN.

It is not a limitation in the flight manual, I contacted Robinson and to paraphrase both them and I in the email conversation we had on this subject after I got bored listening to the arguments for and against, SNs are considered best practice, there is no Left Door off limitation applicable to the Robinsons.

If you have an accident caused by losing articles out of the door, your insurance company MAY (not will but may) have something to say about it, as you have ignored good advice from the manufacturer, but you are not in contravention of the POH. I believe the insurance companies are getting bored of paying for avoidable accidents.

As for the Public transport issue, if you are taking money for the flight it is probably PT. If you are on your own or with a friend and take photos this is not illegal, however it may change the category of the flight if the flight would not have taken place but for someone paying for it to happen in order to take photos (straight from the CAA). A quick call or email to FOI(GA) will usually clear up what you can or cannot do, but be careful how you word the question.

There is also the issue of non G reg (if in the UK) not being allowed to carry out aerial photography without a DFT permission.

Sorry not exactly on topic, but just to discuss the operational issues, not the how to do it ones.

GS

[chopjock]

Firebird:
From my understanding (and the result of several prosecutions by the CAA) a photography flight is public transport. Therefore, you must be base and lined and the machine must be being operated under an AOC.Not true sir. Anyone with a PPLH or above can fly their own or SFH a helicopter, and take photographs. It's only Public Transport if "valuable consideration is paid for the purpose of the flight" :ok:

Another tip for nrh, warn the photographer not to poke his lens out the door frame when you are doing more than 70 Kts. Remember to slow down to about 40 Kts first!

[FLA-ENG]

Don't go racing into any photo flight until you know where the location is.
If you are going to use a 22 be very careful as a tailwind will turn you super fast.
I only use a 44 for photo flights (budget permitting) so I can put the photog on my side and his bag of crap can't go flying out.
NEVER go below 300 feet.... You can not auto anything at that altitude.
Also, think of the people on the ground. I have the Smixx Aeriax guys over my neighborhood every Tuesday.
DO NOT be afraid of saying NO to these people. With the imaging software they use, any photo is perfect.

[nrh]

Many thanks everyone, lots of good info here. Just what I was after :ok:

[CYHeli]

Always discuss weights with the photographer or the third party if they are booking/inquiring on behalf of the photographer.

I had a wine/olive company that was arranging promo shots for an upcoming catalogue. During the planning/booking stage I discussed the weight issue (R22 in use).

When I arrived for a first light photo shoot I discovered the photographer weighed 115 kilos (and then add camera gear on top!:})
We quickly discussed (option 1) another staff member to take photos or (option 2) we come back on another day with a B206... :ugh:

They realised their mistake and were having to pay anyway so we flew another staff member. Next time they might listen.

[MightyGem]

Of course, ignore all the references of about below 300. Remember you'll need CAA exemption to go below 500.

[Bronx]

Remember you'll need CAA exemption to go below 500.

Are you sure that's correct? :confused:

[chopjock]

Of course, ignore all the references of about below 300. Remember you'll need CAA exemption to go below 500.I can tell you that is not entirely correct. The "below 500" bit is wrong. "closer than 500 feet" is a better description, and even then only applies to a vessel, vehicle or structure. You can usually get around this rule if you are going to land at or near the site. This 500 foot rule would not apply for example if you wanted to photograph a hill or a water fall, etc.or anything that is not a vessel, vehicle or structure!

[Plank Cap]

Now here's a query from an unknowledgable rusty old timer; if you were for example to be filming / photographing a vessel (CAA speak for a boat) out over open water, how low and close could you legally go? This question assumes the boat owner / operator is in full collusion with the job on the day, and all has been pre-briefed.
It would appear all those fabulous yachting magazine covers, and the offshore powerboating heli-ops are done from a very low and close perspective........ Are exemptions available down to 20-30ft distance from the boat (UK CAA)? Any thoughts?

[MightyGem]

I can tell you that is not entirely correct. The "below 500" bit is wrong. "closer than 500 feet" is a better description,
Yeah OK, you know what I mean. :hmm:

[mickjoebill]

I know you asked about info from the pilots point of view but if you can keep the below list in mind, that is aimed at the photographer, then it will make your life easier as the pilot.

*Local pilot knowledge invaluable regarding control zones, air traffic issues or delays, noise issues ect.
*Ground recce is useful if is an important job. Look for nearby buildings that could be noise sensitive at the time you are flying.
*refer to Google earth images of the area
*Google for images of the subject if it is well known landmark.
*Consider prevailing wind and direction of sun before deciding which door you will shoot from.
*High shutter speeds above 1/250th sec if possible.
*Kenyon gyron useful but not essential.
*Camera accessory bag that has a deep pocket or throat
*A few small D ring carabinas to secure camera accessory bag.
*Harness if are going to be leaning out.
*Electricians tape
*Thick long socks so you can tuck your trouser legs out of the way and they don't flap.
*Shooting schedule or shot list taped to back of seat. (but not on bulkhead of a jet ranger above 60 knots as it could be sucked out)
*I don't believe it prudent to have a camera safety strap if you are using more than one camera as it is too easy to get into a muddle.
*Practice opening and closing doors if appropriate.
*If working from the back and using both doors consider removing seat cushions.
*On the day, at least an hour to flight plan and get yourself comfortable.
*Try and have an arrangement where you can cancel on the day due to weather.
*If your point of departure is miles from the location and the weather is only occasionally sunny consider having a friend at the location to give you heads up of local weather as well as a set of eyes to warn of unforeseen problems.
*Consider the politics of the company that is employing you as they can be linked to any noise or low level flying complaints from the public. It wont be joe bloggs cameraman/photographer causing the noise it will be reported as a low flying helicopter from "X" company.
*If you are going to loiter over a large industrial complex for hours telephone them in advance to let them know you are working for them.
*Remind yourself that unless you have special insurance your mortgage and accident insurance does not cover accidents in light aircraft and charter company accident insurance generally only pays out if legal liability can be proved.


If you can achieve half from the above you will be in better shape than most!


Mickjoebill

[ShyTorque]

To chip in some more - the "300 feet" reference mentioned a "built up area". The correct term for UK regs would therefore be in accordance with para 3(c), rather than the 500 foot rule:

SECTION 3
LOW FLYING RULE
Low flying prohibitions
5.—(1) Subject to paragraph (2), an aircraft shall comply with the low flying prohibitions in paragraph (3) unless exempted by rule 6.
(2) If an aircraft is flying in circumstances such that more than one of the low flying prohibitions apply, it shall fly at the greatest height required by any of the applicable prohibitions.
(3) The low flying prohibitions are as follows—
(a) Failure of power unit
An aircraft shall not be flown below such height as would enable it to make an
emergency landing without causing danger to persons or property on the surface in the event of a power unit failure.
(b) The 500 feet rule
Except with the written permission of the CAA, an aircraft shall not be flown closer than 500 feet to any person, vessel, vehicle or structure.
(c) The 1,000 feet rule
Except with the written permission of the CAA, an aircraft flying over a congested area of a city town or settlement shall not fly below a height of 1,000 feet above the highest fixed obstacle within a horizontal radius of 600 metres of the aircraft.
(d) The land clear rule
An aircraft flying over a congested area of a city, town or settlement shall not fly below such height as would permit the aircraft to land clear of the congested area in the event of a power unit failure.

[topendtorque]

It is incredibly impoprtant that the harnesses that are used comply with aviation standards, and that procedures to use the harnessses' comply with aviation law.

apart from that , NEVER turn - to then fly - downwind following a target.

Never allow harnesses to be restrictive of each other. I.E. a camera that is hooked to the cameraman, and also hooked through an eyelet or a loop of any existing harness can kill people when the water gets deep and the extra loop cannot be undone.

I tell you son, I speak from the experience of owning a helicopter cross hired, that was so afflicted.

One more thing, there is only only one component that is used around helicopters which has killed more helicopters than prettty much every other component of helicopter structures complete.

Want to guess what it is?

One clue only, it has six letters and starts with the letter C-----.

Never say that you are still dumb after reading this.

[Kirt Hood]

Something everybody tends to forget or have never run into is LTE (loss of tail rotor effectiveness) at least in the R 22 when in a hover. Try to avoid the wind off the nose from the 10 to 11 clock angle when in a high hover so the main rotor vortices stay out of the tail rotor. If it shoud happen the tail can snap around extremely fast to the right and scare the crap out of both of you.

[visibility3miles]

FWIW a website (that I have no commercial ties to, so this isn't an ad) discusses aerial photography:
Aerial Photography: tips and tricks from Photo.net (http://photo.net/learn/aerial/primer)

[rotorrookie]

• Keep RMP on the high side for hovers(gives you better tail rotor effiency)
• It is always better on underpowered machine to have little forward speed rather than still hover.
• If goin in hover at location always plan your way out and even brief the photographer of your “way out “ actions before
• Of course keep in mind the most suitable landing spot at location in case of engine failure.
• Alway keep in mind height/velosity curve, so zero speed hover under 4-500ft agl is not so good idea unless you got at least 15-20kt wind
anything lover should be flown at speed
• Watch out for the photographers stuff, camera bags, shoulder straps don’t get stuck in your controls and doesn’t fall out , ( good idea is to have small plastic box on the floor for the small stuff )
• Remember you are the captain of the ship, beware that let them talk into doing something you are not comfortable with. It is often like the more famous they are the more cocky they are and try to tell what to do and how…. And when you hear stories like “well I have crashed more than once before” or “this type is the best to crash in“ then your bell should be ringing.
• It is advantage if you have done photography yourself, it usually makes it easier for you to understand what frame or composition they are looking for.

Remember to have fun because it is great fun:ok:

[Flying Lawyer]

If anyone is interested in a bridge camera between pocket models and DSLR, I can recommend the Panasonic Lumix FZ28.


http://www.dphotojournal.com/images/panasonic/panasonic-fz28.jpg

I first saw it highly recommended on PPRuNe and, when I did some research, also highly recommended in numerous photography forums.

Much cheaper than a DSLR and good enough for my purposes, it has a 27-486mm zoom which means no (very) expensive lenses to buy. It seems to be a good combination of Leica lens and Panasonic electronics.

.

[blakmax]

http://fastmail.fm/old/Goodbnd.jpg?MLS=FP-*;SFS-CD=31378189;SFP-NodeId=62352535;Ust=8c110db2%21c79641b0;MSS=%21FS-*;UDm=49;MSignal=FS-SF**62352535

OK Heliport, I can see this image on the "Reply to Thread" page clearly, but when I submit reply it comes out as a line of text. Old dog, new trick. HELP!!!

[birrddog]

blakmax, that's because the link you posted a) does not link directly to a photo and or it requires on to log in to the site first before displaying said photo.

You might want to look at a flickr/photobucket account as suggested earlier.

[Phil77]

blamax: like birrddog indicated, you need to find a image hosting server to upload your pictures to. You cannot upload directly to the pprune server.

It looks to me as if you tried to copy and paste the picture from your email account (fastmail.fm) into the preview/edit/reply window?! Since you are still logged in to your email account at that time, YOU can see the picture (so actually the link does refer to your picture, but it refers to your email server) but once you post it, it has no connection anymore - does that make sense?

[blakmax]

Thanks guys, I think Phil got it in one. Photobucket now set up.

[Senior Pilot]

YouTube Embedding. To keep the YouTube video within your post, please use the YouTube embed icon . Within the [youtube] [/ YOUTUBE] should be inserted either:

All letters & numbers after the = in the url, or
All the string in the "Embed" feature to the right of the video, taken from YouTube page that you are linking.

Update 16th March 2011

With the VB3.8 upgrade, simply pasting the YouTube url into the post will now embed the YouTube video

Update 18th March 2011

Vimeo is now capable of the same embedding feature as YouTube
__________________

[helimutt]

I'm possibly about to embark on a rather long ferry flight, and want some hints and tips for taking pics enroute. I have a Canon EOS 500D and just the standard lens and a 70-300 lens.

Anything I can consider?

Thanks in advance.

[nigelh]

Take the lens cap off .

[jayteeto]

Wear a wrist strap if you open the window! :ooh:

[helimutt]

Duly noted. Any other equally as useful tips? :)

Crossing 12 countries, 4500 miles, 8 days. I'd like to at least record the trip somehow. :O

[GoodGrief]

Looks like I'll have a long ferry coming up as well. Getting me a GoPro 2.

[Thomas coupling]

How do i upload a picture or image from my PC please. I have looked at FAQ and the instructions there don't work (there is no manage applications" instruction under the message box???).
I dont have a web host either.

Thanks guys:*

[handysnaks]

TC. I don't think you can! The FAQ's are generic for any vbulletin board and therefore some allow pictures to be uploaded from members computers. I think PPrune has that facility disabled by the mods to aid speed and avoid spammy type things.:8


On the other hand that might be all bullsh!t.....:p as I have been wrong on many occasions!

See here!!! (http://www.pprune.org/spectators-balcony-spotters-corner/203481-image-posting-pprune-guide.html)

[apb]

Thomas, do you use Dropbox?, if the answer is yes you only have to put the image in your public folder into Dropbox and then:

Open the public folder
Click right mouse boton above the pic and then
Dropbox>copy public link
Now you only have to paste the link into insert image

Hope it helps

[MightyGem]

Or use a site like Photobucket.

[Thomas coupling]

Apb: Thanks for that, did it and it works - ta:ok:

[apb]

you´re welcome ;)

[Brilliant Stuff]

You can link any file and any folder in dropbox not only the public folder. FYI.

[Dennis Kenyon]

I see that many of you post pictures. I've used FAQ to discover that I need to create an album, so I've gone to the User Control Panel as instructed, but can't find the link to "Pictures and Albums". Can someone give me clear instructions as to how I can do this?
DK

[Savoia]

Denissimo! I've sent you an email.

[Senior Pilot]

PPRuNe has activated image posting:

To use:

* Click POST REPLY
* Click MANAGE ATTACHMENTS
* Browse to your file and open it
* Click UPLOAD
* Close the upload window
* Type the accompanying text and click SUBMIT REPLY

Don't expect the image to show until you 'Submit Reply', however. Don't ask me why, it's another of those IB geeky things :p

[Fareastdriver]

Let's see if it works.............. A bit small, isn't it?

[Senior Pilot]

Let's see if it works.............. A bit small, isn't it?

That's why it is marked as 'Thumbnail', Bruce!

Click on it and see what magic then occurs ;)

[Fareastdriver]

Fantastic!

[whoknows idont]

You can even click on it a second time and blow it up to original size.
Excellent addition to this board, thank you guys!