A well-run restaurant has a maitre d' who is constantly checking, and kicking, and nudging, and encouraging. That level of hands-on supervision/management seem to be one big factor that is missing, either in the terminal or in the aircraft.
Excellent example and generally, true of the original BA service to the mid '90's. The "maitre d' was a CSO or SCSO (later CSD) who was part of the command team on an aircraft and respected by the flight deck, cabin crew and passengers accordingly.