Not manual vs automatic
It has nothing to do with manual or automatic.
The difference in lighting/intensity between the inside and outside is greater than the latitude of the film.
I typically use a graduated neutral density filter when I shoot video in a situation like this. Maybe a train is in shadow with bright sky above. Easy to fix with a filter that's darker on top than at the bottom.
As an aside, I used to be a "manual snob." Then one day I realized all automatic does is "center the needle" in an exposure meter. If I'm not smart enough to realize when a scene is not 'average' then automatic and manual will give me identical exposures. Automatic might actually do better when I need 1/750 of a second and the manual camera only has 1/500 and 1/1000. Half a stop more accurate exposure. If I'm taking pictures of a stage with a spot light on manual I use one or two stops/steps less exposure than the meter calls for. On automatic I simply set -2. Automatic in my modern Nikons with logic in the metering database is far more accurate than my manual Olympus OM-1 was, uh, 40 years ago.
I have multiple DSLR bodies and several lenses. I probably shoot 80% of my pictures on Program. Why? Under any given set of circumstances there are not that many choices for exposure. If I want something specific I make the camera do it. I depress the shutter button and read what it says in the viewfinder. If I'm happy with the setting I take a picture. For more precision I can zoom in on the subject, lock in the exposure, and recompose.
Sorry for the thread drift!