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Working for a week in PNG.

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Old 20th May 2003, 20:05
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Working for a week in PNG.

Time: 1500 Local Time
Position: P2- ISL, circuit area Kamina.
Me: Was that the airstrip? (Looks again….thinks)
Or a sweet potato patch.

At 350m that airstrip was short, damn short. The 10kt tailwind wasn’t going to help either. Hmmm….
Why the hell did I come to PNG in the first place?

The coin is flipped. Heads, I win. Paul is volunteered to drive the 40km from Lae to the airport at Nadzab. First stop the briefing office. Second stop the Coke machine. It is 0700 Monday morning. Let the games begin.

The plane is loaded and the passengers are walking out to the aircraft as I check the oil and kick the tyres. The traffic officer sheepishly points to a somewhat lifeless figure being supported by two men and suggests the passenger is drunk. Fine, I say. He looks harmless in that state. Doors closed, I fire up the engines of my BN-2 Islander and I’m ready to go.

I don’t need a taxi clearance this morning. The senior controller forgot the door key to the control tower and is currently on the PMV (local bus) heading home to retrieve it. For me it’s off to the Kabwum Valley with its six associated airstrips. I try to land at the highest ones first and work my way down. An orange cross next to the windsock indicates there are passengers to pick up. On the ground at Indagen I can see my next stop only one mile away on the other side of the valley. As both airstrips are at 5500 feet and at right angles to each other, take-off immediately positions me on a left base for Konge. Wheels off at Indagen to wheels on at Konge takes 65 seconds.

Next stop Satwag. Level, with steep drop offs at either end, it’s a real aircraft carrier type airstrip. Up at 4000 feet it’s one of the few two-way mountain airstrips. As I taxi into the parking area it appears the whole village is out to greet my arrival. That’s very nice of them, but I wonder why they are all carrying flowers and looking solemn. I’m still scratching my head until a stretcher is carried to the plane and the “drunk” placed upon it…. Well I’ll be damned. The “drunk” is long since dead. I’ll bet the traffic officer, who is from this area, knew all along.


Nobody got much sleep last night. The thunderstorms rolling in from the Huon Gulf put on a spectacular light and noise display. On a brighter note, today is my lucky day, or so says the operations manager. He seems to think I like going to Isan. Sitting on a 6600 foot high ridgeline, it’s 410m long with an 8 % slope. The 4000 foot drop off from all sides makes for a difficult circuit. Turning onto final I think I look a little low but the altimeter suggests a little high. ******, caught in the conundrum of an optical illusion or an incorrect QNH. It all gets too much for my brain so I take a bet each way and don’t adjust anything. It doesn’t seem fair that the only cloud in the valley is passing across the threshold. This airstrip really gives me the creeps. Hurry up cloud, I’m getting close. Passing through the trailing wisps I’m on the ground at last.

Take-off is another matter. It’s just my luck nine passengers with all their baggage, sweet potato chickens etc, want to go to Lae. Maximum take-off weight on today’s soggy airstrip will call for the PNG “B” take-off technique. Full throttle, release the brakes, raise the nose wheel at 35 knots and allow the Islander to roll off the end. The airspeed will build up while dropping down into the valley.

Back in Nadzab 30 minutes later I am greeted by the operation manager’s favourite words, “just a quick Kabwum, Shaggs”. There is nothing quick about a trip to the Kabwum Valley and four hours later I am totally knackered. It’s definitely beer o’clock so all the lads head off to the Lae Yacht Club. Over a cleansing ale or three we observe the wildlife and laugh over the biggest scares of the day. You can be sure there will be more tomorrow.


I wake to the sounds of geckos chirping. The sun is rising and with it a change of plan. Today I’m going to our Wau base to help out for a few days.

After landing the Islander at Wau all the passenger seats are removed, four diesel drums loaded and it’s off to Sim. Up at 5020 feet and 425m long I usually classify Sim as medium scary. The approach is over a deep valley and strong winds around Christmas time make it unusable for up to six weeks. The myth is that in years gone by the village agent would fill the windsock with rocks during the windy season to give the appearance of no wind. No such deception is possible today, as the windsock has blown away. Talk about rough. The airspeed indicator fluctuates wildly, as does my heart rate, until finally I am unceremoniously dumped on the airstrip. Be damned if I’m coming back here today. Replace the diesel drums with 800kg of coffee bags and it’s back to Wau.

C’mon lads, shake a leg. Lets get this plane loaded. My next stop is Kamulai. At 5500 feet AMSL and 481m, it’s spook factor increases from medium to extra scary after 1100 due to strong winds in the valley. The village Mission is run by Father Able, a French Catholic Priest. This trip is his monthly supply run. He was on the radio this morning making sure we did not forget the bare necessities: two flagons of port, four rolls of toilet paper and six pouches of tobacco.

Over dinner in the Wau pilot’s house I hear of today’s lucky escape by a C-206 pilot. On take-off at Nadzab his aeroplane lost all power, despite the engine screaming and the tacho well over the red line. He landed on the remaining 2000m of runway. When he couldn’t taxi off the runway he shut down the engine to inspect the problem. It wasn’t until he had walked around the C-206 twice that he noticed the propeller was missing.


The alarm sounds at 0630 and yet another day begins. It’s only a 100m walk to the Wau airstrip and the crisp air at 3500 feet is a welcome relief to the mugginess of Lae.

Today’s instructions are simple. There are 50 tons of coffee at Hewini and Tawa to take to Aseki. With a flight time of 4-5 minutes between the airstrips it’s possible to do about 25 sectors today. Although the cloud will start building up from 1000, it won’t cause any major problems since the airstrips are all connected by a network of valleys. Getting back to Wau could be different story.

Given the sheer amount of work we do, aeroplanes invariably break down. For a problem such as an inoperative starter motor the “bush” DDG ( Dispatch Deviation Guide ) would read:
2 installed, 2 required (M) or (O). [ maintenance or operations ]
(M) Call company on HF radio and ask for the engineer to fly
out and replace. (This was likely to take all day/night)
(O) 1. Wind a rope around the spinner.
2. Get four locals to hold the rope.
3. Take the strain.
4. Run like the clappers.

It works every time.

Eight hours after leaving Wau and I have had enough. The cloud base is getting lower and the rain showers are getting heavier. At the back of Hewini is the Sunshine Gap, a 6000 foot low point between two mountains. It’s the quickest way back to Wau by far, but at the moment it’s not looking too promising. In case of down draughts you should always have either excess speed or height when crossing a ridgeline or gap, preferably both. At the moment I have neither, as the cloud is sitting on the trees and I have slowed down because of the rain. I approach at a 45 degree angle so I can turn away quickly if there is no way through or the weather is unfriendly on the other side. As I get closer it’s looking more and more ominous. Decision time. But just before I turn away I see a small hole in the cloud and a wide-open valley behind. Skimming the trees in a quick right turn, success, I’m through. This has got to be worth more than the $36 a day I get paid.


Another day, another dollar, which is exactly what the local Wau bank does not have. It was robbed during the night. I thought I heard a few gunshots early this morning. Nonetheless it’s a marvellous day with nary a cloud in sight.

I depart Wau heading south via my old nemesis the Sunshine Gap to one of my favourite airstrips, Kaintiba. Tucked up the end of a valley it resembles a ski jump since the bottom 100m is relatively flat and the top 100m slopes down at about 20%. Unlike a ski jump, however, the surface is rough enough to shake the fillings out of your teeth.

Most mountain strips are between 400-550m long. Next stop Kamina, at 350m short, looks positively tiny. According to specially tailored performance charts (up to 10% slope) the MLW at Kamina is the basic weight of the Islander. The MTOW allows carriage of the pilot. These figures are proven wrong daily.

At Kamina I am told of a sick person waiting at Komarko for a lift to the main district hospital. It seems the local Mission C-206 pilot refused to take him. Could I help? Sure I say, but secretly wonder if the patient has leprosy. Arriving at Komarko the whole story unravels. Apparently a recent tribal fight resulted in a man having a spear impaled in his head. Unable to physically accommodate the man and spear combination in the C-206, it was suggested an Islander could possibly fit him in. As it turns out the wounded warrior gave up waiting for me and set off on the six hour walk to the closest Mission hospital. Boy, these mountain people sure are tough.

The passengers I have accumulated so far are left at Aseki while I move some more coffee. They watch me come and go for three hours until we all depart for Wau. Unlike seasoned Frequent Flyer airline passengers, who demand on time departure and arrivals, these people are just thankful not to be left behind.


My Islander is not feeling well this morning. Every now and again the left engine starts running roughly and the cylinder head temperature gauge rises into the red arc. Management recalls us to Lae for engine investigation.

At Nadzab the Chief Pilot, just starting to taxi, is pleased to see me. He grins at me, stops taxiing, shuts down the engines and scuttles back to his office leaving yours truly staring at his plane full of confused passengers. I can take a hint, so muttering uncomplimentary remarks about our fearless leader I check the fuel, jump into the Islander, restart it and request a taxi clearance for...? I ask the passenger behind me where he lives. That will do for starters. As I fight my way towards the Kabwum Valley, it is obvious why the Chief Pilot bolted for his office. The weather is basically lousy.

There is no mucking around today. Get in and get out ASAP is today’s motto. The higher airstrips are proving particularly tricky. Konge has its cloud base just above the threshold so a circuit is flown in the valley just below airstrip height. Due to the slope of the airstrip it is possible to inspect from below. A gentle climb on short final and I pop up over the cone markers.

The weather is now beyond foul. So, following the old adage of “He who fights and runs away, lives to fight another day”, I fly down the valley to the coastline, turn right and follow it around the Huon Peninsula to Lae, then up the Markham River to Nadzab. It takes three times longer than normal to get back. One of our less fortunate pilots gets clouded in at Indegen. He spends the night freezing in a flea ridden grass hut, scowling into his dinner of tinned fish and rice. Not happy, Jan.

Midway through a thousand beers at the Lae Yacht Club I learn my morning’s engine trouble was due to a faulty magneto causing mistiming. With five hundred beers to go, I highly suspect it will be me not feeling well tomorrow morning.
___________________

I must confess to a small amount of poetic licence in this little yarn. However, the stories are all based on true events.
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Old 20th May 2003, 20:26
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wow, that was great reading.

send to a publisher!
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Old 21st May 2003, 06:45
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Thumbs up Not that much licence at all!

cow bay kid,
Not much poetic licence at all - that is almost exactly how your average week at NCA goes!

Good fun isn't it?

Give my regards to Guts, Mike and Brad. We didn't part on the best of terms but I count my Northcoast time as the most exciting of my flying career and wouldn't be where I am today without it or them.

2daddies.

"Oh no. We've crashed! Eeeeeeerrrr and I had golf at two! Eeeeeeeeeerrrrr. Get my Alan Bond novel! Eeeeeerrrrrr!"

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Old 21st May 2003, 07:32
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P2- ISL

Is that a very old, tired Bongo van, ex Talair?????? Brad or Mike should be able to confirm.

Surely that thing isn't still flying, or is it? How many hours and cycles on it now, or has the clock been "rolled back"?

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Old 21st May 2003, 08:48
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Torres,
When I left NCA in 2001, P2-ISL, ISM and DWA were all still chugging along quite nicely. In the sense that their wings were still attached (just - the ripples in the upper-surface skins were of some concern) and the engines worked more often than not!

I believe that ISL and ISM were both ex-Talair, but DWA might have come from a different stable ("Divine Word Academy" or an institution like that?). It was a 260HP BN-2 with single, not dual controls.
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Old 21st May 2003, 10:41
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Absolutely brilliant Cow Bay Kid!

Two thumbs up from me!

I'd give my left nut to get into PNG and fly, ever since I was a kid I've been keen.

You never know, I might see you up there one day.

You've made my day...
Good on ya!
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Old 21st May 2003, 16:36
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CBK

Yeah that's about how I remember it

Except I made it in and out of Sim 'almost always' in the windy season in a Talair Twotter so you youngans must be a bunch of blouses

If the turbulence around Lake Trist was unbareable I did not even enter the Sim Valley but otherwise it was only interesting after crossing the threshold when that undulating 20' high embankment just upwind of the Twotters wingtip was a hoot

ISL and ISM are both ex Talair machines and DWA was Divine Word Airways...I have many hours in the two former but if I ever climbed in the latter I think a lightning strike would follow

You should have seen Kamako before it was lengthened around the corner....You young blokes are just spoilt

Chuckles

Edit

All the way to Finchafen to get back from the Kabwum? What's wrong with circling to 13500' north of the Saidor Gap and flying inbound on the 350 radial until visual, about 10DME usually, and then descend into NZ...ISL/M not IFR anymore? Brgds to Brad, Mike C and Guts Thiele.

Last edited by Chimbu chuckles; 21st May 2003 at 19:38.
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Old 21st May 2003, 19:27
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Thumbs up

wow. what an amazing read.

I have never heard PNG flying descibed as anything other than the most challenging flying there is.

the rumours sound pretty accurate.

great read CBK. awesome.
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Old 21st May 2003, 19:52
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And for those who didn't see the previous thread on PNG Goat tracks;

NCA Islander departing Kiantiba in the wet season/afternoon.

Talair Twin Otter @ Kamalai

Please when next you see Father Abel say hello from the Ginger headed Talair Pilot who landed there in cloud...yeah don't ask and YEAH he'll remember

Satwag - Kabwum Valley

Chuckles
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Old 22nd May 2003, 09:51
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"Satwag - Kabwum Valley" looks ok compared to the other two.
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Old 22nd May 2003, 11:46
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That photo of kamalai is incredible. I can't believe its actually an airstrip!
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Old 22nd May 2003, 13:00
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Angel Unreal..!!

Good one cow bay kid. I have never read such a descriptive account of flying in PNG. So descriptive in fact, it almost felt like I was flying there when I was reading it.

It seems to me that the same planes still have the same problems.

I remember one time after takeoff in the C206, it became apparent that the engine or prop was shaking/rattling the instrumet panel and the control column alot more than normal, so I returned to land back at Nadzab.

GT was phreaking at the fact that I had come back, and asked me what was the problem. I informed him and the engineer, he scratched his head and went back to his office. (God only knows what he does in there all day.)

After awhile he came back out and said the engineer (a very talented engineer ) had a look at it and nothing was wrong. I politely told him that yes there was something wrong and I refused to fly it until it was fixed. (I was not going to fly a fully loaded c206 to 11500 ft over the ranges in such a condition.) He threw a tantrum we had a bit of a debate until I said 'why dont you fly it then'. He stormed back into his office. I offered to do a circuit with the engineer inside, and it even took him awhile to agree. After ten min they both dissappeared, I waited for a couple of hours, then went home. By the next day, the engineer had fixed the problem, a twisted shaft. After all my encouragement thankfully.

The Islanders problems are nothing new, oil munching, engine surging, spark plug fouling, or not even starting. Its hard to judge the condition of your engine on take-off when none of the engine gauges are working. These Islanders would have to be the most battered in the world, and I think that if they were in a civilized country they would be considered not airworthy unless majorly overhauled. The wings would be the first thing that I would replace. A heavier than normal (for PNG) landing and the wheel strut goes through the wing. As has been demonstrated not long ago.

Anyway I would just like to say you seem like a clever man Cow Bay, utilize your judgement, dont be afraid to say no and stay safe. After all saftey comes first not profit, dont fall into the trap.
Have fun, enjoy your time, cause it certainly is some of the most thrilling flying you will probably ever do.

I also noticed the Department of Foreign Affairs travel advisory for PNG not long ago. It mentions the road from Lae to Nadzab and its associated dangers. I actually found it to be somewhat amusing. A couple of my previous work collegues and myself have been shot at on the way to work, even with a security escort, thankfully, the rascals are just a bad shot as the dudes in matrix reloaded. Maintain your vigilance at all times and keep a look out. I suggest when driving through these hot spots to keep your speed as high as possible and not to worry too much about driving around the pot holes in the road. That van can cop a hiding, demonstrated many times before in the past by ex North Coast drivers.

Cheers.

Last edited by Mark CRUISE; 22nd May 2003 at 13:29.
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Old 22nd May 2003, 15:59
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Full throttle, release the brakes, raise the nose wheel at 35 knots and allow the Islander to roll off the end. The airspeed will build up while dropping down into the valley
Oh..you forgot to mention..pole forward as you go of the end so the elevator horns don't catch on the lip..
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Old 22nd May 2003, 18:28
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Azimuth believe it... I landed the Otter in the picture. One of my favorites actually, always looked forward to visits with Father Abel...a real old charachter who's been there since the late 40s, built the airstrip and Church...and sadly to quote him (in heavy French accent with rolly hanging from lower lip) "I 'ave wasted ma liif on dese useless, thieving etc, etc". Seems like every time he visits 'the world' something bad happens...Europe in the mid 50s was Ok apparently, nothing much had changed since the war, when he was French Underground, captured and survived several years in a Concentration Camp. The same place 12 years later was more than he could comprehend...Mini skirts/ The Beattles etc. A visit to Moresby in the mid 90s had him stabbed by the people he has dedicated his life to...very sad.

Not all these photos are mine as they were mostly lost in 1994 but are those taken by various ex PNG Pprune contributors to past threads and I have saved them to replace my lost ones.

Finals @ Kamalai

Lined up @ Kamalai

And to give Satwag some scale this is looking back along finals toward the east...Satwag elevation 4000'

Landing into the west @ Satwag

Unloading coffee from NCA C206 @ Aseki

Finals Kiantiba

Enjoy...we most assuredly did

Agreed Captain Fathom...pole forward lest thy tail smite the earth

Chuck.

Edit: I hope you don't mind me giving some colour to your very excellent thread by posting the piccies...lets people truly appreciate the very well written opening post...

Last edited by Chimbu chuckles; 22nd May 2003 at 18:56.
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Old 22nd May 2003, 19:40
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Snoop

Chuck, check yer PM's!
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Old 23rd May 2003, 10:35
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Thumbs up

Cow Bay Kid; top post! Brought back a few memories.
Chuckles; Did'nt know that you had lost your photos when Vulcan blew it's top. If you're over this way sometime give me a call and you can check out my album for some copies if you like.
Father Abel is certainly a character, that's for sure. If anyone heads into Kamulai I'd appreciate them to pass on my regards to him. I was the DZ and later Simbu pilot with the glasses and moustache, originally from the Barossa Valley.

You only live twice. Once when
you're born. Once when
you've looked death in the face.
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Old 23rd May 2003, 14:15
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Angel Good One Cow...

Good to hear some people left here with some fond mem's and sense of humour.
Unfort NCA are unable to use many of the Strips (Sim, Bapi and the list goes on and on) they and Talair ventured into in the "good ol days" just purely due to the conditions being just deplorable. Along with many sad stories around here, the pride that I guess used to come with many of the people has vanished. So does their Airservice.
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Old 25th May 2003, 10:55
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Performance Flying @ PNG Standard

Good post Cowbay, I'm always interested in new stories ex PNG.

For those of us who were there in the 'taim bipoa' there were some positive factors offsetting the optimistic loadings, density, slope, weather, and tired old C180/185's, and they included:

(1) The ANO 28.1 Route & Strip Endorsing System

While everyone griped about it, the fact is that it did work reasonably well. Sure, there was a bit of shortcutting done on the easier strips and routes, but I beleive it was the one and only way to teach new CPL's. The mentor-pupil system has always worked.

(2) The Presence of Law & Order

At most strips in PNG, there used to be either a kiap,(Patrol Officer), or at least senior national police staff. The strips might not have been great, but they were usually well mown, (by a gang of calaboos wielding sareps), and there was often a radiod strip report by 8AM.

Aircraft and their activities had absolute priority, and you or the aircraft were never in the slightest danger from non-aviation events.


But, it's still a place where you can gain different, but valuable flying skills. If young pilots can handle the security issues, you really owe it to yourself to try for a job there.

cheers,
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Old 25th May 2003, 17:44
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Fantastic story!! I am based in Lae myself at the moment, although not for NCA. The flying is awesome up here, but security issues are the worst in driving from Lae to Nadzab, as I and three other pilots got held up last week with four rascals with homemade shot guns, wasn't pretty, but its a fact of living in Lae.
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Old 26th May 2003, 01:39
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COWBAY KID

Great piece of work....great reading. Like some other mate said ...call your agent and then your publisher!

Nearly 20 years ago I drove my Aztruck once around the pea patch..took off to the east and returned 24 days later from the west...and part of the adventure was getting back across the BIG pond. Fuel dictated the Japan-Kurils-Aluetians route.

We went Bali-Darwin-Alice-Sydney(the halfway point) and planned to return via Brisbane-Pt Moresby-Biak-Manila-Hong Kong-Nagoya. We arrived in Pt Moresby at midnight and after a lot of screwing around got to a "hotel" about 2am wondering if the plane would still be there in the AM. We were going to north towards Lae and along the north coast to Biak but after onsidering the weather forecasts-mid June-and the terrain and lack of suitable airports decided to go Daru-Nabire-Biak. Overflying some of that dense jungle around the southern route and reading your account of the interior reinforces the idea that the best way is overwater.

Thanks for your great account....write some more.
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