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rjtjrt
29th Apr 2010, 00:23
I am about to start using drum fuel. Never done so before. Have to set this up from the start.
Can those experienced in this give me advice - traps and tricks of the trade? Safety advice. Best equipment for a 44 gal drum use. How to filter. Etc.
Also even the most basic advice would be helpful - I certainly know less than many others.
Any outside source of information/publications also would be a help.
I have contacted AeroShell, and AirBP but they seem to have next to no information available.
John

Pugilistic Animus
29th Apr 2010, 00:38
SNS3Guppy I believe wrote something about that subject IIRC,...I know that water removal can be accomplished with a chamois -Never did that myself though:)

TowerDog
29th Apr 2010, 01:08
Did that years ago: Drums in the bed of a pick-up truck and a hand pump fueling a DC-3 in Alaska.

Used car gas but mixed with aviation fuel to get close to the right octane rating.

Did the same with a C-185 on a remote beach in Alaska.
A Twin Otter flew in the drums to the beach so we could base the 185 there for a fish spotting operation for the Alaska Fish and Game managment.

(Platinum Beach)

I used some kind of filter and funnel to keep water and dirt out.

Good old days, now way too lazy to even think of it....:sad:

ForkTailedDrKiller
29th Apr 2010, 01:18
No big deal - Naughton high speed rotary drum pump with approriate filter.

Only refuel from sealed drums.

Dr :8

Warbo
29th Apr 2010, 01:38
Try to keep the drums well under cover. If they must be kept outside, put a block of wood or a brick under one side so the drum stands up on a lean, parallel to a line between the the two bungs i.e., have the bungs aligned so that they are higher than the point where water will sit.

You can get a paste that changes colour when it comes in contact with water. Put a bit on a dipstick and check before each refill. Google "kolor kut", it is the name of the paste I have used in the past.

FokkerInYour12
29th Apr 2010, 01:42
The shelf life on AVGAS is 12 months in a drum. I asked Air BP if there was any difference to a previously opened drum to an unopened sealed drum and they said no.

Don't forget to earth!

Ex FSO GRIFFO
29th Apr 2010, 01:46
And don't forget the 'earth wires'.....

It would seem to me that this forum is hardly the place for the gaining of such important info.

I used to be a BP distributor when running a couple of country flying schools, and would recommend that perhaps you could find a local operator somewhere - anywhere - who could show you the 'ropes' - or 'earth wires' as they might be in this case.....

To me, these would be equally as important as any filters, water checks, storage of drums, currency of stock etc etc.

One spark, from a differing 'potential', and it could all be over........

Best Regards.

chimbu warrior
29th Apr 2010, 02:27
Well I have done a lot of refuelling from drums, but not recently.

As previously stated, use only sealed drums, preferably stored under cover.

Place a chock or brick under the drum, immediately below the larger of the 2 bungs (the one you are going to insert the pump into). This ensures that any water or rust or dirt is away from the pick-up point at the bottom of the pump.

Use a metal filter with a chamois insert to trap water. Prior to refuelling, drain about half a litre of fuel from the aircraft (not the drum), and use this to wet the chamois. If it is wet with fuel it will trap water, and vice versa. Then pump about 2 litres of fuel from either into a glass jar, or on to the ground and verify that it is uncontaminated. This ensures that you don't pump water into your aircraft.

As previously suggested, earthing is very important.

Water detecting paste (or a syringe with tablets) used to be available from the fuel companies. Not sure if that is still the case.

Kelly Slater
29th Apr 2010, 02:28
What FTK said. You can safely use opened drums if you know their history but it is always preferable to use a whole drum in one hit. The Chamois is something taught in Flying School if you haven't got a proper filter and you are desperate, really desperate I'd say. Earthing rules are standard no matter what the fuel source. Storage on the side slightly tilted and preferably covered.

BULLDOG 248
29th Apr 2010, 02:57
Years ago they had expiry dates on the drum. If they dont now days, just use one year from filling date, which should still be printed on it.

Old Akro
29th Apr 2010, 03:22
Invest in a good rotary pump. I agree with FTDK about the McNaughton one. I think its a gear pump. . I have a 1 litre per stroke one that is also good. I've used the old rotary vane ones and your arm is ready to fall off before you get a fill. The pump needs to be kept clean when its out of the drum, so look for a suitable plastic container.

I looked into the rules some years ago, and my memory is fading. But I think this is an area where there are more made up rules than real ones.

The fuel companies only use new drums (which you pay for in the drum price which is part of the reason why drum fuel is so expensive), so fuel from new sealed drums is very reliable. Once the drum is opened is a bit like a half sucked chuppa chup. You might put your own back in your mouth, but someone else's needs to be viewed with suspicion.

I've never used a filter and never had a problem - but I've only ever fueled from my own new fuel refinery drums. Frankly, I find the idea of the chamois & funnel a bit 1920's. There are filter funnels you can buy (check Aviation trader or the Aircraft Spruce website). You can also get drum pumps with cartridge filters which might be the best option.

If you are seriously needing a drum option, you might want to look into a stainless steel tank on a trailer. The fuel will be cheaper because you'll be able to have it filled by a distributor. I have seen "in test" trailer tanks at secondhand auctions for reasonable prices.

chimbu warrior
29th Apr 2010, 03:32
The other thing you may need to consider is that when refuelling a high-wing aircraft, it is a 2-man operation; one to hold the nozzle, and one to operate the pump.

Regarding the chamois filter, the idea is to be able to see any water contamination. I have never used a pump which incorporated a cartridge filter, so I am not sure if they will pass water or not.

In the remote areas where drums are usually found, sometimes a member of the local population has "borrowed" some of your fuel and thoughtfully topped off the drum with water!

Alistair
29th Apr 2010, 05:29
All the above + when you store the drums be carefull to do so in a way that won't allow water/condensation to collect on the top (bung end) of the drum.

As the drums cycle through hot/cold (day/night) the pressure inside/outside varies and can actually lead to them sucking water through an incorrectly sealed bung as they cool. We used to lie them on lengths of different thickness timber with the bung end on the lowest piece. It makes it obvious if the drum hasn't been sealed correctly after use as it will leak!

Try to let the drum stand a while before using it as this will allow any sediment/water time to get to the bottom. It is also wise to not empty the drum completely (most pumps won't let you anyway) as the last of the fuel will hold the water/sediment if any. We saved that bit for our bikes/cars.

Lots of other stuff about drum refueling is out there, talk to a local operator or refueller. I type too slow for any more. Good luck.

bushy
29th Apr 2010, 05:54
I once got the phone call that you never want to get. I was told "your aircraft has had an engine failure and has landed on the road at woop woop. Do you want to call the police or will I?"
This resulted in a flurry of activity to look after pax and a replacement airvraft, engineers etc.
They had filled it with AvTUR instead of avgas! When the pilot got hame I shook his hand, told him to take a week off, and that his job was secure. I thanked him for saving my aeroplane.
Investigation revealed that the drums for avgas and avtur were kept in the same compound and painted the same colour. They were labelled on the top. We all knew the PIC is responsible for everything and it's easy to blame him, but the blame game is counterproductive. He was half way through a busy day and the fuel agent sent two people to do the refuelling. It is reasonable for the pilot to assume they knew what they were doing, and the AVGAS stickers were prominently displayed near the fuel filler aps. But the refuellers could not read!!!!
I talked to the f uel agent, and he built an separate compound for the avtur, and I spoke to our friendly FOI who promised to talk to the fuel company about using different colurs for the two different grades of fuel. I alertad the other pilots to the potential trap and wrote it up in our ops manual.
The PIC learned a valuable lesson that day.(We all did) It was experience you cannot buy. He has gone on to a distinguished flying career, and is a valuable member of our aviation community.

tasdevil.f27
29th Apr 2010, 09:32
Just be aware that some oil companies are getting very nervous about refilling empty drums. Mobil has banned it altogether.

Senior Pilot
29th Apr 2010, 09:51
Since you seem to be a helicopter pilot, you may find a lot of helicopter relevant answers on Rotorheads?

:ok:

ozaggie
29th Apr 2010, 11:04
Jeezus.... Naughton, Mcnaughton, next thing it will be Briggs&Stratton and Villiers for christ's sake. Its McNaught, and be very aware that they are the wildest way to produce the said 'potential' I have ever seen. That said, they break down handily to carry in the back (or hopper) of the plane. Bit like an American Express Card really!!!!!! oops, was that advertising??
So where in Oz outside the major population centres can you get these stainless tanks filled without any grief, usually a headf**k in my somewhat limited experience..

Toodles. OA

John Eacott
29th Apr 2010, 11:18
An excerpt from my old Ops Manual:

Drum Stock and Refuelling
Oil company literature warns that drum stock aviation fuels are very susceptible to contamination from rust, scale and water. Therefore, when refuelling from drum stocks the pilot in command must ensure that:

Drums have been stored on their side, above the surrounding ground level, with the bungs horizontal and, preferably, undercover. This is to prevent water accumulating on the drum head and being drawn into the drum when cooling takes place during the night;

Drums shall be in good condition, not leaking, original seals are intact and product details such as brand, grade required (AVTUR), batch number, etc, are clearly visible. If otherwise, the drum must be rejected;

Each drum should be stood on its end and chocked so that the large bung is in on the side. This will allow sediments or water to settle to the lowest point of the drum, away from the pump stand pipe;

Drums should be left standing for as long as possible preferably for a minimum of 30 minutes, prior for testing for water. In turbine fuel, water when finely dispersed is not visible and takes some time for the water to settle form suspension;

The drum must be carefully checked for the presence of water. The method of water detection is to draw a sample form the lowest point in the drum by means of a sample tube. This is a small diameter tube sealed at the top by the operator’s thumb, inserted to the lowest point of the drum and thumb released.

This will allow a sample of fuel from the bottom of the drum to be forced into the tube. The operator’s thumb is the replaced over the top of the tube withdrawn and the sample of fuel placed in a clear glass contained;

The fuel is checked for colour, clarity and freedom form dirt and/or visible water by swirling the fuel in a circling motion so that any sediment, etc. will collect in the centre bottom of the glass container.

A quantity of the sample fuel is then drawn through a “shell type” water detector capsule via a syringe. Water content of 30ppm or more will change the colour of the capsule form yellow to blue. If water or sediment is detected,the fuel must be rejected, if no water is detected, the capsule should be proven by the addition of water or saliva to the detecting surface of the capsule. The detecting paste may be used if water detector capsules are not available;

Before adding fuel to the helicopter’s fuel tanks, the drum shall be earthed to both the ground and the helicopter by the use of static lines.If the hose is not of the earthed type, the nozzle earth line must be attached to the helicopter prior to the removal of the helicopter’s fuel tank cap. The pump, filter and lines should be flushed with a litre of more of fuel; and

The fuel is to be filtered into the aircraft through approved micro filters. If the micro filter is equipped with a drain, the filter shall be drained before used. If a micro filter is not available, the fuel shall be filtered through a funnel fitted with chamois leather or two layers of nylon cloth. Care must be taken to ensure correct bonding when using funnels.

I had McNaught pumps made up to be easily broken down, with quick release plugs at each open point to seal the units for packing. Fire agencies now require water stop filters, which prevent the pump from passing fuel once water enters the filter. A spare filter element is essential in case the water stop works! Refueller's gloves should also be carried (special rubber covered gloves to protect your hands), plus a pair of multi grips and/or pliers to pull off the bung covers, a bung spanner to open the bungs (always remove both the large and small bungs) and a torch to shine into the drum to inspect for water globules on the bottom of the barrel, plus any other contaminants. Don't forget a glass jar to put the fuel sample in, also useful to carry the water test paste and Shell test capsules and syringe. Plenty of spare rags, too, and an old pair of flying gloves to use while assembling everything. I bought canvas holdalls from disposal stores to pack and carry it all.

Drum storage has been mentioned, but you should try to let a drum stand for at least 30 minutes before use to allow sediment to settle. When empty, reseal with the bungs and turn the drum upside down to indicate that it is no longer available for refuelling. As a helicopter pilot you will pump many a drum of fuel in your career: it's supposed to be character building, but pumping 400lt of JetA1 in 40C+ during bushfires loses its appeal after a few thousand drums ;)

ForkTailedDrKiller
29th Apr 2010, 11:24
Jeezus.... Naughton, Mcnaughton, next thing it will be Briggs&Stratton and Villiers for christ's sake. Its McNaught,

Oh dear, you are right of course. There is one sitting on the floor of my office. I eventually found it after Jaba lost it!

Unfortunately I am 600 nm from my office.

Dr :8

Capt Fathom
29th Apr 2010, 11:25
It's not rocket science!

We are talking about getting fuel from a drum into a tank!

Common sense.... if that still exists?

Let's not turn it into the Holy Grail.

compressor stall
29th Apr 2010, 11:26
I am positive that somewhere in the past I have seen a document from a fuelling company on refuelling from drums. Someone may have it.

Some good gen above, but I am alarmed about someone saying that it's good to use a previously opened drum... not advisable.

400 lt John? That's a trickle! My record is 2700 litres in one hit - by hand! Mind you it wasn't +40°C though :E

John Eacott
29th Apr 2010, 11:31
400lt gave me an hour-and-a-bit on the fireline, and an excuse to land and have a break for another refuel ;)

I thought you had a Great Big Refuel Truck following you around in those orange boxes :p

john_tullamarine
29th Apr 2010, 11:54
Water detecting paste (or a syringe with tablets) used to be available from the fuel companies

Still available - we buy stock regularly - but not a very long shelf life. You can have my regularly thrown out timex stock if you want ...

601
29th Apr 2010, 13:35
funnel fitted with chamois leather or two layers of nylon cloth

I would not use nylon or chamois due to the potential to build up static electric (http://www.caa.govt.nz/safety_info/GAPs/Fuel_Management.pdf).

One source of information can be found here (http://www.rfs.nsw.gov.au/file_system/attachments/State/Attachment_20050526_6596D579.pdf)in the NSW Rural Fire Service Aviation Section.

Another source is on page 10 here (http://flightsafety.org/files/bars_v2.pdf)

Tinstaafl
29th Apr 2010, 17:44
Don't do what I saw one pilot do when we were using drums:

We'd carefully stored the drums on their sides, caps level with each other then up-ended on to a chock and given time to settle during the morning, ready to be used after lunch. This bloke decided he couldn't be bothered pulling his aircraft over to the drum so he rolled a just settled drum on its side across the tarmac to the the aircraft, intending to start refueling immediately. I don't think a blender could have mixed contents as effectively.

chimbu warrior
29th Apr 2010, 22:43
601 I totally agree regarding nylon, but was quite surprised that the Kiwis recommend not using a chamois, given that it is a leather/natural fibre product.

Only thing I can think of is that there are nowadays many synthetic products using the generic term chamois to describe the product.

Maybe it is a conservationist thing too; much of the chamois is sourced from the hills of NZ (deer hide).

601
29th Apr 2010, 23:04
Chimbu

Kiwis recommend not using a chamois, given that it is a leather/natural fibre product.

Maybe that is the problem in that there are a lot of synthetic chamois sold today. I guess it is like aircraft parts - you need to know where it was made before you use it.

ForkTailedDrKiller
29th Apr 2010, 23:20
I think my McNaught pump has a water separating filter on it. Can't check until I get home.

Dr :8

Rarely Dble Amber
1st May 2010, 12:04
McNaught Pumps are rubbish, they seize up if not used for a couple of weeks.. get a Tecalamit pump of similar design. Attach a McNaught filter with the amber filter bowl so you can see straight away if you are pumping water and or rust. You might need to attach and seal the fittings necessary with silver solder. Dont use galvanised fittings. Fit a male camloc to the outlet and cap that with a camloc cap. Put a female camloc on one end of the hose and a male camloc on the nozzle end. That way you can coil the hose up and plug it into itself when not in use, keeps the frogs and mud out. With the drum, sit one edge on a block of wood so that you cannot pump out the last 5 litres or so, you will leave any water in the drum that way. Dont forget to earth out the pump/hose to the aircraft, especially if you operate in a dry cold climate. Take a good hard look at any fuel that comes out of an old abandoned half empty drum. Before reusing a drum Inspect the inside using a mirror in the sunlight, any water or rust in there, donate it to a mate that wants a molasses drum. He now owes you a six pack. Buy a spare McNaught filter bowl, they break pretty easy. Get some other idiot to wind the handle, make up an excuse why it needs to be that way. Be safe.

Desert Flower
1st May 2010, 12:59
Before reusing a drum Inspect the inside using a mirror in the sunlight,

The easiest way to inspect the interior of an empty 200 litre drum is to use an intrinsically sound torch. Removed both bungs from the drum, place the torch over the small hole & look in through the large one.

DF.

Cactusjack
2nd May 2010, 11:12
I can see the Townsville Refueller cringing over this thread.He is strictly a 'truck transfer' kinda man,and would have none of this talk about fuel drums.I hope this process of using drums is NOT happenning in Townsville, he will be most annoyed.

John Eacott
2nd May 2010, 11:18
Removed both bungs from the drum, place the torch over the small hole & look in through the large one.

Strangely, the easiest (and best!) way to check is to look through the smaller hole and use the light (daylight or torchlight) through the larger hole.

Try it: it works :ok:

Desert Flower
2nd May 2010, 11:33
Strangely, the easiest (and best!) way to check is to look through the smaller hole and use the light (daylight or torchlight) through the larger hole.

Yes, that way too. I have done it both ways, depending on where the drums are located.

DF.

Ex FSO GRIFFO
2nd May 2010, 11:43
Hello Mr Townsville Refueller......

Its NOW your turn...!!!

:}:}

Peter Fanelli
2nd May 2010, 13:30
Yes, that way too. I have done it both ways,


Oh really???

:E

Desert Flower
2nd May 2010, 22:29
Yes, that way too. I have done it both ways,

Oh really???

I just KNEW someone would have to comment on that! ;)

DF.

Desert Flower
2nd May 2010, 22:33
I can see the Townsville Refueller cringing over this thread.He is strictly a 'truck transfer' kinda man,and would have none of this talk about fuel drums.I hope this process of using drums is NOT happenning in Townsville, he will be most annoyed.

Townsville is Townsville - the outback is the outback. Different strokes for different folks! ;)

DF.

-438
3rd May 2010, 05:21
Don't put Jet A1 in a piston engine aircraft. The drums are often stored together.
Will most likely still start and produce power (possibly reduced) depending on the mix.

frigatebird
3rd May 2010, 05:43
The Ginger Beers would put the Daily Drains in a Hilux diesel light shop Ute with a little oil added, and run staff where ever they wanted to go..

Desert Flower
3rd May 2010, 07:59
Don't put Jet A1 in a piston engine aircraft. The drums are often stored together.
Will most likely still start and produce power (possibly reduced) depending on the mix.

Yes - usually enough of the proper stuff in the fuel lines & carby to taxi out & get airborne. Things rapidly turn to ****e shortly thereafter!

DF.

Jabawocky
3rd May 2010, 08:47
Rumour has it that is how a Cirrus wound up going for a swim in the Whitsundays just recently:ouch:.

May not be true.....but it sounds plausable.

So DF.... why no drums for your place after BP pulled the pump ops out?

Desert Flower
3rd May 2010, 10:00
So DF.... why no drums for your place after BP pulled the pump ops out?

Arghhh - don't get me started! :ugh: Something to do with aerodrome regulations/insurance, & the aerodrome owners not wanting to put up the necessary hazchem signs & supply fire extinguishers. Had a Skyfuel semi parked in the compound a few weeks ago with around 17,000 litres of Jet A1 in it for the Fugro C-212 that was operating in the area. Ya think I wasn't p****d off about that?! :{

DF.

airag
3rd May 2010, 11:23
As somebody sensible already said it aint rocket science..... all the , "must do this and must not do", that comes from those who have barely done it !

Have fuelled from drums / IBC's etc. using rotary hand pumps , electric pumps , diesel pumps , petrol powered pumps etc. etc. as have all bushies.

Simply use common sense know the source and use a filter.

multiple 20lt roundup drums in the hopper are also good for extending ferry/working range....

The Wawa Zone
4th May 2010, 14:00
Its easiest to move drums using a goods trolley (with a strap to hold on the drum). That way you get a tilt on the drum as well as keeping it vertical.
If you can't access a goods trolley, forget the idea of rolling a full drum (180Kg) it on its edge.
Kick it over onto the ground and roll it along, accepting the fact that you will mix up any water/mud/rust etc inside, so do this as soon as you shut down to give it max settling time.

To pick it up, don't pull it up with your arms, you'll blow your back. Instead, kneel in front of the top with your knees on the ground, push your chest (or your tits) into the top and lock it there with your arms, then push foward with your legs - this rotates the drum upright using leg power only. You'll need to trap the bottom lower lip of the drum so it doesn't slide. You're wearing cargo pants and brown shirt ?

Unless you know for a fact that the pump is in good condition and for aviation use only, bring your own. You'll find Farmer Fred's pump is full of diesal oil, sand, and sheep drench. A rag stuffed into the hose and the spear will keep most dirt out, but Rarely Dble Amber's advice is spot on.
Wipe dust off the spear before inserting.

Pump the first couple of liters into a clean container (usually your own that you have brought along) to check for any junk.

Practise all the drum stuff before you go out and do it for real on a charter the first time, because then you'll be pushed for time and fumbling with the pax watching. This includes getting tools to open the bungs and rope to tie open the nozzle in the fuel cap.

Regardless of whats on the drum, test the fuel with dunny paper. Yep. Get some fuel out of the pump onto the dunny paper. If it dries clear and dry as before, it AVGAS. If it has a greasy translucent appearence, you've got some/all JET, diesal, etc.

Jabawocky
5th May 2010, 02:45
Oh dear, you are right of course. There is one sitting on the floor of my office. I eventually found it after Jaba lost it!

Unfortunately I am 600 nm from my office.

Was probably where you left it......hidden! Just like 3 x Tablet PC's that were in your sock drawers! :}..... or wherever else you hide things:E

J:)

YPJT
13th May 2010, 13:48
Unfortunately with Avgas outlets being closed down more and more around the country, we are probably going to see an increase in the use of drum fuel.